Bianca, A Home Away From Home

September 15, 2009

Dining out in New York can be delightful or difficult and everything in the middle. What it should be, at all times though, is relaxing. Bianca, a restaurant in lower Manhattan is just such a place.

Eating there a handful of times already gives you the feeling that you are a home. The manager will suggest you go next door and have a drink at Von while you wait for your table. The wait may even be long but no one seems to mind. It is a testament to the service, the food and the ambiance of Bianca.

Make no mistake, this is a local trattoria-style joint with an inexpensive and cash only menu all the time. It gets a fairly young and hip crowd from Nolita and the East Village but everyone’s always welcome and it feels that way.

The pasta are generally delicious and lasagna is always on the menu. The Chef leans towards dishes from Emilia Romagna. On a recent visit, the Tagliatelle with Sausage and Broccoli Raab were delicious. On another trip, the Ravoli di Ricotta with butter and sage did the trick. The portions are also quite generous.

Other recent dishes that we sampled include the Stracetti di Manzo, Carciofi fritti, Radicchio alla Griglia in Coperta (with prosciuto and cheese) which sounds odd but is delicious and the ever present Caprese salad.

A neat little wine list completes the picture. If you go, be patient and bring cash. Bianca is a sister restaurant to Celeste on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, also inexpensive with delicious pizza and a loud crowd as well as Teodora, a more upscale dining experience in Midtown.

The group, created and run by Chef Giancarlo Quadalti, is also associated with Fiore in Williamsburg, Brooklyn where Chef Roberto Aita runs the show.

Eating at any of these restaurants is a real pleasure and sends you home feeling not only satisfied with the food and wine but relaxed, as if you had just dined at a friend’s home.

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Not All Fried Calamaretti Are Created Equal – Brooklyn’s Fiore Takes The Cake

July 30, 2009

Some dishes are on every menu. Fried calamari falls into this category. We all know that many classic dishes such as this one can be made in a variety of styles. You can find fried calamari at the seashore whether at a chic restaurant in the Hamptons or at a lobster shack on Cape Cod every year. This dish along with fried clams is particularly appealing in the summer.

By far, however, the best fried calamari in New York is made in Brooklyn, yes Brooklyn. In Williamsburg, a lovely neighborhood restaurant named Fiore takes the prize.

Roberto Aita’s version of this dish using fried calamaretti with fried zucchini is pure joy. Light and crispy, it almost makes you forget that it is fried. The rest of the all cash menu is exquisite as well.

Roberto hails from Italy and opened his restaurant about two years ago. The restaurant, which Roberto likes to think of as a neighbor trattoria, is both cozy and stylish at the same time. The menu changes frequently and Roberto on occasion will make special dishes.

The restaurant is popular with all age groups and has numerous regulars who eat there every night. Children are welcome and at an early hour are some of the preferred customers. The price is right too. A great meal can be had for $25 and under, no small feat in the Big Apple.

Fiore can accommodate large parties and the relaxed and friendly staff makes going there a real pleasure, not always the case at New York restaurants. Even with an unpleasant staff, his calamaretti are worth the trip.

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