Italian cuisine | Radicchioblog

Hitting the streets of Ferrara

August 31, 2010

On September 4th I have a blind date, but not with a guy… with a monument!
Yes, you got that right, let me explain. On September 4th, the city of Ferrara is hosting the first ever “Street Dinner”. This is a unique opportunity to enjoy art and food together; an ensemble of adventure, gastronomy, natural scenery, conviviality and mistery.
Chic but informal at the same time, the event welcomes a large number of gourmands who, armed with a table, a chair and a bag filled with delicacies, will only find out at the very last minute by what historical building or monument they are going to sit and enjoy all the provided local specialties.

All is possible thanks to text messaging: indeed all participants will find out their destinations step by step directly on their phones. The first text will provide the location of the “welcoming” aperitivo where people can mingle and get to know each other while sipping spumante. A second text will inform all of the location where to pick up the table, the chair and table settings plus the food bag (there are two different menus available. The actual dishes are a secret but you can choose between a meat-based or a fish-based menu). Thirty minutes later another text will inform each guest of their diner location. Some of these locations are, for example, the court of Castello Estense (a magnificent castle built in the center of the city), on Corso Ercole I d’Este with a view of Palazzo dei Diamanti (the house of the National Art Gallery, is one of the most famous buildings in Italy: the white marble exterior consisting of 8500 blocks are carved in the shape of diamonds), along the Listone of Ferrara (a beautiful square by the Duomo), in Via delle Volte, among the Ancient Walls and many other wonderful corners (such as one of the city’s beaches or bridges).

As I said, the menus, like everything else, are secret, but I hope that they will feature some of these local specialties:Cappellacci di zucca, pumpkin ravioli, are served with ragù or butter and sage sauce; tagliatelle, noodles with ragù or mushroom sauce, the maltagliati, irregularly shaped egg pasta cooked with beans, classic lasagna, green lasagna, pasticcio alla Ferrarese, a pie stuffed with maccheroni, béchamel, cheese and ragù with porcini mushrooms; riso con zucca e salsiccia, rice with pumpkin and sausages, or with fish Brodetto, a seafood broth. Rice is also prepared with eels, with ragù, cheese and porcini mushroom. Polenta is often served in place of pasta. It can be fried in butter or dressed with a sauce, cheese, meat or fish. Anguilla (eel) and polenta, polenta with ragù, polenta and sausages are common fare in the Ferrarese. As far as desserts are concerned: ciambella ferrarese is made with flour, eggs, butter and a little sugar; torta di mele is a sponge cake mixed with fresh apples sliced very thin; panpepato is a super rich chocolate cake with candied fruits and nuts, ginger, pepper and other spices and mandurlin dal pont are delicate and crispy cookies made with eggs, sugar and almonds.
For more information: http://www.streetdinner.it
- Natasha Lardera

1 Comment | Dining, Emilia Romagna, Events, Fresh Pasta, Travelling | Tagged: Emilia Romagna, Events, Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Travel | Permalink
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Sicilian flavors: Caponata at Cacio e Vino

August 31, 2010

Several Italian news and travel web sites (www.siciliaonline.it and www.myluxury.com to name a couple) are reporting that Sicily has defeated Sardinia as the favorite summer destination of local and, mostly, international stars. Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, Elton John, Giorgio Armani, Sting and many more prefer the still uncompromising beauty of this island to the pretentiousness of a natural paradise that has been turned into a sort of circus by the wannabes. A round trip ticked to Palermo, this time of the year, starts at $523 on Meridiana (available only until mid September) but if you are like me, meaning you don’t have much time off so going all the way to Italy is practically impossible, you’d be happy to know that Sicily can be “tasted” in the East Village. At Cacio & Vino to be exact.

The menu is a never ending (but in a good way) and features some of the most traditional and flavorful Sicilian dishes (including Sarde a beccafico con cipollata,
baked Mediterranean sardines stuffed with bread crumbs, pine nuts, raisins, orange zest, sweet and sour onions; Involtini di melanzane, stuffed rolls of eggplant with pine nuts, raisins, basil, pecorino cheese, tomato sauce; Spaghetti con pesto trapanese, homemade spaghetti, fresh tomato, basil, garlic and almond pesto; Gnocchi di fico e primosale, potato and fig gnocchi in a Sicilian cheese fondue sauce and Pesce spada all’agrodolce,
pan-seared swordfish in sweet and sour sauce with olives and onions and vegetable ratatouille.
Every time I go I am undecided on what to order as everything looks, and tastes so good, but one thing I know for sure is that I will order Caponata (as a cold appetizer). At Cacio e Vino caponata consists of Sicilian style sweet and sour eggplant, celery, olives, onions, served with chick pea fritters and goat cheese. Bursting with color and flavor, it is blend of eggplants and tomatoes, balanced with green olives, capers, celery, sugar and vinegar for its characteristic sweet and sour taste. Caponata can be served cold or at room temperature and it should be prepared a day in advance so the flavors will have time to blend and settle. It can be served with pasta, rice, or omelets but the more traditional way is to serve it as an appetizer with crackers or accompanied by fresh crusty Italian bread or, in the case of Cacio e Vino, with freshly baked pizza dough cut into small slices.
Enjoying it with a glass of wine while waiting for the next dish to arrive is absolute bliss.

- Natasha Lardera

1 Comment | Dining, Restaurants, Sicily, Vegetables | Tagged: Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Sicily | Permalink
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Honoring the garlic of Voghiera (DOP)

July 28, 2010

The experts tell us that what makes it unique is the combination of large, compact, white cloves, a unique, pungent flavor, and a long life span: Voghiera’s garlic isn’t only Italy’s most beloved garlic, but the true elixir for a long life (the heath benefits of garlic in the treatment of colds, cancer, heart disease, hypertension, infection and even impotence are more than often praised) that is about to be celebrated for three days in a special festival in the Castle of Belriguardo (in the province of Ferrara.) From August 6th to the 8th, this special bulb, the only one that earned (in 2007) DOP recognition, returns for the 13th time to flavor and “bless” every type of dish, so that garlic-laced foods will be available for sampling.

At the festival, in addition to sampling, people can participate in culinary competitions, a beauty pageant (“Miss Garlic” will be elected for the first time this year) and a poetry challenge. This is the opportunity for the Grande Mercato dei Sapori, a large local produce market, to introduce the public not only to this special garlic but to other products found in the area.

The garlic produced in Voghiera counts for less than 1% of the national production, but quality counts more than quantity; its unique characteristics derive from the terrain and environment where it is produced, with its silty-clay soils, near the Po’s Delta. It is cultivated in Voghiera, Masi Torello, Portomaggiore, Argenta and Ferrara according to specific rules and then it is certified by an external inspection entity, which is recognized as qualified by the Emilia Romagna region.

Garlic is an important ingredient in Italian cuisine but it is not used in everything (many still believe it is) as its distinctive taste can sometimes detract from that of other more shy ingredients. It is used in some sauces, stews, soups, salad dressings, pasta sauces, casseroles, breads, grains, and croutons. An important rule: when sautéing, avoid overcooking because as the garlic browns it begins to exude a bitter aroma that will be a portent of its contribution to the final flavour of the dish.

- Natasha Lardera

2 Comments | Emilia Romagna, Events, Ingredients, Travelling, Vegetables | Tagged: Emilia Romagna, Italian cuisine, Italian Regions | Permalink
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Grow your own dinner

July 26, 2010

Tomatoes, carrots, and lettuce. But even zucchini, eggplant, asparagus and artichokes. These are the new ingredients of a stress-fighting diet, as long as each type of vegetable is cared for from seeding to harvesting. At the breathtaking Antica Corte Pallavicina Relais in Polesine Parmense (PR) chef Massimo Spigaroli unveils all the misteries of a great vegetable garden. It is a process that starts from the preparation of the earth, to the seeding of the products to finally end with the pleasure of harvesting and with practical lessons on how to cook and preserve these beloved vegetables. Growing your own veggies is a trend that was started by the Obamas that goes in an organic and eco-friendly direction. It is definitely “green”, fun and healthy because it brings to our plates fresh and seasonal products while helping the environment. No need for a large piece of land, just a tiny rectangle of earth in the backyard or a large tub placed on the rooftop (terrace for the lucky ones) can bring nature closer to us. Each class held at L’Antica Corte is 3 hours long. Chef Spigaroli goes over each step, from preparation of the earth to the preparation of the dish and, at the end, each participant receives a box of freshly harvested vegetables. The remaining classes for this year are: August 2, September 6, October 1 and November 1.

- Natasha Lardera

3 Comments | Cooking, Emilia Romagna, Travelling, Vegetables | Tagged: Emilia Romagna, Italian Chefs, Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Vegetables | Permalink
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Porchetta Sandwich – Juicy Perfection

June 18, 2010

One of my closest friends works in a lovely wine bar in NYC – Cellar 58. So as I love to see my friend and drink some good Italian wine, (in Italian we call this “Prendere due piccioni con una fava” which basically means “To kill two birds with one stone”) I go to visit her as often as possible. Needless to say I have elected my favorite dish on the bar menu: the porchetta sandwich. Porchetta is a succulent pork roast, typical of the traditional cuisine of Lazio, Marche, Umbria and Tuscany (Cellar 58’s menu has been inspired by the cuisine of these regions). The exact location of where porchetta was first conceived is still a culinary mystery. People from Ariccia, in Lazio, claim paternity of the original recipe, while in Umbria it is told that Norcia, town known for pig farms since the times of the Ancient Romans, is the culprit. Apparently even the people of the Marche have claimed to be the originators…

Porchetta is a tender and juicy hunk of pork encased within fatty, crispy skin (crackling) made by cooking together rosemary, garlic, fennel, sage, salt and pepper and spreading them over pork loin. The meat is then rolled up before being tied with butcher’s twine and roasted (usually for about two and a half hours). The pork is so flavorful you really do not need any other accompanying ingredient. There are however regional differences: tradition calls for two basic ways to season porchetta. In southern Tuscany, southern Castelli di Roma and in other areas of Central Italy, it is seasoned mainly with rosemary. In northern Lazio, Umbria and Marche it is seasoned mainly with wild fennel which gives it a unique taste and aroma.

The Porchetta sandwich is not commonly eaten during a meal, but between meals as a “snack” or as a craving after a long night out (drinking and dancing). It is usually eaten warm, sliced and stuffed into fresh bread (ciabatta is a fave) on the street (from special trucks), outside a nightclub, during concerts, open air markets, town sagre and sporting events. Porchetta needs to be eaten right away, there is no time to waste. The most flavorful parts are those with equal parts of fat and lean meat that are marbled with stuffing. The crispiness of the skin best indicates the freshness of the meat.

In Tuscany or Umbria, street sellers are called porchettai, while in the Castelli di Roma area they are known as porchettari. NYC is still porchettari-free so when in need of this special sandwich going to Cellar 58 is the best solution. (One can also stop by Porchetta, where Chef Sara Jenkins makes porchetta sandwiches to takeout).

By Natasha Lardera

3 Comments | Lazio, Le Marche, Restaurants, salt, Tuscany, Umbria | Tagged: Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Lazio, Le Marche, Tuscany, Umbria | Permalink
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A vacation for aspiring chefs

June 2, 2010

As I am planning my upcoming Italian vacation, I am researching cool and different places with unique things to do. Although I was born and raised in that beautiful country there is still so much I have not seen, so my goal for the upcoming month is to get home, drop my suitcase and pack a smaller one for several short trips.

One of my first destinations will be the house where Monsignor Giacomo della Casa, Italian bishop, poet and translator who is mostly known for his popular treatise on good manners, Galateo, lived. Monsignor della Casa di Borgo San Lorenzo (FI) is a retreat for those who love to live life at a slow pace, taking time to enjoy good food, a beautiful landscape and the company of friends. The place offers some incredible classes and it is my intention to try them all. The “Tutti chef al Monsignore” program features meetings with the resort’s chefs where the unique taste and simplicity of Tuscan cuisine is explored. It is a fun way to learn the traditional dishes of Tuscan cuisine in a breathtaking environment. In the “house of good manners” a team of experts leads all guests who desire to participate in this program, in the preparation of true delicacies with impeccable style. Among pots, pans and other tools, the art of Tuscan cooking is shared among food lovers who wish to prepare an authentic menu which features homemade fresh pasta (from pappardelle to gnudi), meats from the area (exquisite wild boar), and vegetables gathered in the resort’s garden (do not miss seasonal zucchini flowers). This program ends on January 9th, 2011. Other culinary recreational activities such as olive oil and/or Chianti tastings, saffron and/or chestnut picking, visits to the local fresh produce markets and to cheese making facilities can also be enjoyed. I think I want to try them all.

By Natasha Lardera

2 Comments | Cooking, Italian Regions, Travelling, Tuscany | Tagged: Italian Chefs, Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Tuscany | Permalink
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Eating healthy: pizza!

May 12, 2010

A few steps from Union Square, pizza, one of America’s favorite foods, has improved its nutritional profile by featuring a tasty whole-wheat crust. Where? At Piola.
Piola is a pizzeria that offers really authentic cuisine, hand made specialties and wood oven cooked pizzas in a youthful and modern environment. Simple, healthy, and delicious food, attentive service and a laid back ambiance definitely satisfy even the most demanding customer… (and in New York City the Italians are really demanding when it comes to savoring their traditional dishes). The first time I tried it, it was just out of curiosity, the waiter had asked so I figured why not! But then I found myself looking for it every time I went back. Thinking that I was doing something good for my body made me automatically feel good.
Whole-wheat dough contains vitamins, minerals and fiber, some of which are lost in the refining process when dough is made from refined and processed flour. The main reason that so many people prefer processed pasta, to whole-wheat pasta, is that the processed pasta has a slightly different taste and texture than the whole-wheat variety, and many people have become accustomed to it. Truth is, with pizza, especially thin crust like the one served at Piola, you cannot really taste the difference and as you enjoy it you are also taking better care of yourself. It does cost an extra dollar, but it’s no news, by now I know that eating healthy is a bit more costly, but it’s totally worth it.
One last note: Piola also serves Pizza Bianca (pizza with no tomato sauce reminder of how pizza was before the tomato was introduced to Italy), Pizza Napoletana (smaller and with thicker edges) the Classics and some International variations (like Pizza Copenhagen with smoked salmon, brie cheese, parsley and mozzarella)

Leave a Comment » | pizzerias, whole-wheat | Tagged: Italian cuisine, Pizza, whole-wheat | Permalink
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What Do You Need In The Kitchen To Make An Authentic Italian Meal?

March 18, 2010

What should you have in your pantry at all times in order to be able to whip up an Italian meal? Many cooks have an opinion on this one but there are some basic staples that they all seem to agree upon: dried pasta, olive oil, tomatoes, parmigiano reggiano and/or grana padana. These four items make up the base. Some cooks then add things that are less basic such as Sicilian Sea Salt while others included canned Tuna and Italian fruit preserves.

For years, this writer would have included pepperoncino but a friend rightly pointed out that that spice could be used in many different cuisines not just in the Italian one. Some people say that garlic should be included but that is not the opinion of others and in fact, Italian cuisine doesn’t always use garlic just some of the Italian cuisines….This was another good point that my friend made, Italian cuisine is regional and not all of the regions have the same types of foods so it is hard to discuss an all encompassing Italian cuisine. That said, it seems fairly common to find the first four items on every regional table.

7 Comments | Ingredients | Tagged: Authentic Italian Ingredients, Italian cuisine | Permalink
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Food For Thought: Evolving Ideas About Italian Cuisine

August 11, 2009

In recent conversations about Italian food in America, a few interesting themes keep popping up that have to do with what defines “authentic” Italian cuisine. Is it the origin of the chef? The ingredients? The recipe? The ambiance of the restaurant?

While this used to be easier to define, these days, everything is murky. In today’s world, many of the heads of top Italian restaurants aren’t Italian and most of the ingredients are bought locally and are no longer imported. With the greening of America, people are now quite conscious of the carbon footprint of imported goods.

Additionally, all sorts of restaurants are making new versions of Italian stalwarts. Most Italian restaurants are making their recipes with a twist and few seem to follow the original script. Some people protest changing a time honored tradition in the way a recipe is prepared.

At the end of the day though, most of these issues are personal and subjective and there is no one right answer. Everyone has a different view but one thing is sacred to all, the quality of the food and the freshness of the ingredients. That seems to be the one theme that everyone agrees upon.

As the world continues to evolve and Italian products make their way to every corner of the Earth, strict boundaries will fray and definitions of what is or is not Italian food will become more lax, we suspect.

Perhaps this is really the point then, it would be good to start using the phraseology – Italian inspired cuisine. This alerts the person ordering that dishes will be familiar but not the same as what you have had previously.

This would be the perfect way to define Italian-American cuisine as well. How many times have people noted that spaghetti and meatballs are not served together in Italy or that pizza doesn’t have oregano?

The new way of looking at this issue is that perhaps it’s okay that the cuisine in Italy is one thing and that Italian-American cuisine is something else, Italian inspired cuisine. After 120+ years of living in the U.S., shouldn’t Italian-Americans also have their own cuisine. Yes would be the resounding answer.

Traditions are quite often linked to a particular location and a certain culture. There is without a doubt, an enduring culture of spaghetti and meatballs in the United States. Should this be curtailed because you don’t see this plate on menus in Milan, of course not.

2 Comments | Dining, Restaurants | Tagged: Italian cuisine | Permalink
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