Hitting the streets of Ferrara

August 31, 2010

On September 4th I have a blind date, but not with a guy… with a monument!
Yes, you got that right, let me explain. On September 4th, the city of Ferrara is hosting the first ever “Street Dinner”. This is a unique opportunity to enjoy art and food together; an ensemble of adventure, gastronomy, natural scenery, conviviality and mistery.
Chic but informal at the same time, the event welcomes a large number of gourmands who, armed with a table, a chair and a bag filled with delicacies, will only find out at the very last minute by what historical building or monument they are going to sit and enjoy all the provided local specialties.

All is possible thanks to text messaging: indeed all participants will find out their destinations step by step directly on their phones. The first text will provide the location of the “welcoming” aperitivo where people can mingle and get to know each other while sipping spumante. A second text will inform all of the location where to pick up the table, the chair and table settings plus the food bag (there are two different menus available. The actual dishes are a secret but you can choose between a meat-based or a fish-based menu). Thirty minutes later another text will inform each guest of their diner location. Some of these locations are, for example, the court of Castello Estense (a magnificent castle built in the center of the city), on Corso Ercole I d’Este with a view of Palazzo dei Diamanti (the house of the National Art Gallery, is one of the most famous buildings in Italy: the white marble exterior consisting of 8500 blocks are carved in the shape of diamonds), along the Listone of Ferrara (a beautiful square by the Duomo), in Via delle Volte, among the Ancient Walls and many other wonderful corners (such as one of the city’s beaches or bridges).

As I said, the menus, like everything else, are secret, but I hope that they will feature some of these local specialties:Cappellacci di zucca, pumpkin ravioli, are served with ragù or butter and sage sauce; tagliatelle, noodles with ragù or mushroom sauce, the maltagliati, irregularly shaped egg pasta cooked with beans, classic lasagna, green lasagna, pasticcio alla Ferrarese, a pie stuffed with maccheroni, béchamel, cheese and ragù with porcini mushrooms; riso con zucca e salsiccia, rice with pumpkin and sausages, or with fish Brodetto, a seafood broth. Rice is also prepared with eels, with ragù, cheese and porcini mushroom. Polenta is often served in place of pasta. It can be fried in butter or dressed with a sauce, cheese, meat or fish. Anguilla (eel) and polenta, polenta with ragù, polenta and sausages are common fare in the Ferrarese. As far as desserts are concerned: ciambella ferrarese is made with flour, eggs, butter and a little sugar; torta di mele is a sponge cake mixed with fresh apples sliced very thin; panpepato is a super rich chocolate cake with candied fruits and nuts, ginger, pepper and other spices and mandurlin dal pont are delicate and crispy cookies made with eggs, sugar and almonds.
For more information: www.streetdinner.it
- Natasha Lardera


Honoring the garlic of Voghiera (DOP)

July 28, 2010


The experts tell us that what makes it unique is the combination of large, compact, white cloves, a unique, pungent flavor, and a long life span: Voghiera’s garlic isn’t only Italy’s most beloved garlic, but the true elixir for a long life (the heath benefits of garlic in the treatment of colds, cancer, heart disease, hypertension, infection and even impotence are more than often praised) that is about to be celebrated for three days in a special festival in the Castle of Belriguardo (in the province of Ferrara.) From August 6th to the 8th, this special bulb, the only one that earned (in 2007) DOP recognition, returns for the 13th time to flavor and “bless” every type of dish, so that garlic-laced foods will be available for sampling.

At the festival, in addition to sampling, people can participate in culinary competitions, a beauty pageant (“Miss Garlic” will be elected for the first time this year) and a poetry challenge. This is the opportunity for the Grande Mercato dei Sapori, a large local produce market, to introduce the public not only to this special garlic but to other products found in the area.

The garlic produced in Voghiera counts for less than 1% of the national production, but quality counts more than quantity; its unique characteristics derive from the terrain and environment where it is produced, with its silty-clay soils, near the Po’s Delta. It is cultivated in Voghiera, Masi Torello, Portomaggiore, Argenta and Ferrara according to specific rules and then it is certified by an external inspection entity, which is recognized as qualified by the Emilia Romagna region.

Garlic is an important ingredient in Italian cuisine but it is not used in everything (many still believe it is) as its distinctive taste can sometimes detract from that of other more shy ingredients. It is used in some sauces, stews, soups, salad dressings, pasta sauces, casseroles, breads, grains, and croutons. An important rule: when sautéing, avoid overcooking because as the garlic browns it begins to exude a bitter aroma that will be a portent of its contribution to the final flavour of the dish.

- Natasha Lardera


Grow your own dinner

July 26, 2010

Tomatoes, carrots, and lettuce. But even zucchini, eggplant, asparagus and artichokes. These are the new ingredients of a stress-fighting diet, as long as each type of vegetable is cared for from seeding to harvesting. At the breathtaking Antica Corte Pallavicina Relais in Polesine Parmense (PR) chef Massimo Spigaroli unveils all the misteries of a great vegetable garden. It is a process that starts from the preparation of the earth, to the seeding of the products to finally end with the pleasure of harvesting and with practical lessons on how to cook and preserve these beloved vegetables. Growing your own veggies is a trend that was started by the Obamas that goes in an organic and eco-friendly direction. It is definitely “green”, fun and healthy because it brings to our plates fresh and seasonal products while helping the environment. No need for a large piece of land, just a tiny rectangle of earth in the backyard or a large tub placed on the rooftop (terrace for the lucky ones) can bring nature closer to us. Each class held at L’Antica Corte is 3 hours long. Chef Spigaroli goes over each step, from preparation of the earth to the preparation of the dish and, at the end, each participant receives a box of freshly harvested vegetables. The remaining classes for this year are: August 2, September 6, October 1 and November 1.

- Natasha Lardera


… and a vacation for Prosecco lovers

June 9, 2010


As my personal quest for Italy’s unique destinations continues, I figured that after tasting the best of Tuscan cuisine I need to sip on one of my favorite Italian wines: Prosecco. What a better destination than the “Strada del Prosecco”? (Literally Prosecco wine road).

First known as the “Strada del Vino Bianco” (officially opened in 1966), this stretch of road leads you, for about 47 kilometers (29 miles), among the hills of Conegliano, Feletto, Quartier del Piave and Valdobbiadene all the way to the feet of the Prealpi mountains in the Veneto region. The trip starts in Conegliano exactly in the square where the castle is and it procedes throgh several towns: Costa, Rua, San Pietro di Feletto, Refrontolo, Pieve di Soligo, Solighetto, Farra, Colle San Martino, Guia, Santo Stefano and San Pietro di Borbozza. The road is drizzled with florishing vineyards, lovely communities that welcome old taverns, locandas and trattorias, and striking landscapes. Each participating locanda in town has to feature a plate that reads “Bottega del Vino”. This means that the business has been carefully reviewed by a group of experts in terms of quality of wines available for tastings and on sale, authenticity of the place and oenological knowledge of the staff. The review is done yearly, and who does not pass has to remove the plate. To be considered for qualification, each bottega has sell, no matter the season, the following wines: Bianchi dei Colli, in the dry and amabile varieties, and Prosecco and Cartizze, in dry, amabile, frizzante and spumante varieties. These great wines are paired with fresh baked bread, appetizers, cheeses and cold cuts.

For a place to stay: Villa Giustinian in Portobuffolè (TV) is an amazing villa that offers Prosecco-flavored stays. From June 6th to August 1st, a five-night stay features a tasting in a locanda, a meal in a local trattoria, a bottle of Prosecco and a relaxing vacation at the villa. From August 6th to the 8th fireworks will color your nights, while sipping Prosecco in one of the many locandas.

By Natasha Lardera

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A vacation for aspiring chefs

June 2, 2010


As I am planning my upcoming Italian vacation, I am researching cool and different places with unique things to do. Although I was born and raised in that beautiful country there is still so much I have not seen, so my goal for the upcoming month is to get home, drop my suitcase and pack a smaller one for several short trips.

One of my first destinations will be the house where Monsignor Giacomo della Casa, Italian bishop, poet and translator who is mostly known for his popular treatise on good manners, Galateo, lived. Monsignor della Casa di Borgo San Lorenzo (FI) is a retreat for those who love to live life at a slow pace, taking time to enjoy good food, a beautiful landscape and the company of friends. The place offers some incredible classes and it is my intention to try them all. The “Tutti chef al Monsignore” program features meetings with the resort’s chefs where the unique taste and simplicity of Tuscan cuisine is explored. It is a fun way to learn the traditional dishes of Tuscan cuisine in a breathtaking environment. In the “house of good manners” a team of experts leads all guests who desire to participate in this program, in the preparation of true delicacies with impeccable style. Among pots, pans and other tools, the art of Tuscan cooking is shared among food lovers who wish to prepare an authentic menu which features homemade fresh pasta (from pappardelle to gnudi), meats from the area (exquisite wild boar), and vegetables gathered in the resort’s garden (do not miss seasonal zucchini flowers). This program ends on January 9th, 2011. Other culinary recreational activities such as olive oil and/or Chianti tastings, saffron and/or chestnut picking, visits to the local fresh produce markets and to cheese making facilities can also be enjoyed. I think I want to try them all.

By Natasha Lardera

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Bergamotto from Reggio Calabria, A DOP Product With Many Uses

February 11, 2010

Bergamotto or Bergamot is a Citrus fruit which is grown in 45 towns in the Province of Reggio Calabria in Calabria. This interesting pear-shaped fruit with a somewhat rough skin is designated a denominazione d’origine protetta product or DOP. Essential oils extracted from this fruit are used in the perfume industry.
The tree is called the Citrus aurantium var. bergamia (also known as C. bergamia), of the Rutaceae family and is also known as the Bergamot orange.

A Bergamot is quite different from an orange or a lemon or other citrus fruits and only grows in this area of Calabria on the coastline. There is a consortium to promote and protect the fruit.

Bergamot oil is used not only in perfumes but also in cooking. It is added to traditional dishes in order to lighten the flavor. Bergamot oil can be used to contrast sweet notes in food such as crustaceans but it can also be used to offset strong flavors in game meats. One of the many uses of Bergamot oil is in sorbet or sorbetto.

Bergamot oil contains hundreds of cemical components and is also used to make cosmetics and soaps. The oils also have antibacterial properties and the product is often used in the pharmaceutical industry as well.
Last but not least, the oil from this versatile fruit is also used in after dinner liquors and in teas and infusions.

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Treats From Bergamo & Valcalepio

October 8, 2009

Just when you think you know everything about a place, you discover something new. Italy is perfect for these types of endless discoveries. You can always find new foods, new wines, new art treasures or local traditions.

One region which generally is overlooked for regional specialties is Lombardy. It is famous for its financial and fashion capital Milan but is also home to numerous small cities with a wealth of history. These should all be explored and not just quickly passed by on route to Venice, Florence or Rome.

Among these gems is the city of Bergamo, located just an hour outside of Milan. It is also served by a local well connected airport called Orio al Serio. Many low budget airlines fly into Bergamo, among them Easyjet and Ryanair.

Bergamo

Bergamo is actually two towns, Bergamo alta and Bergamo basso. Bergamo alta is a fortified city in medieval walls with a beautiful central piazza, incredible Duomo or cathedral, baptistery and other notable monuments as well as stunning views over the countryside.

Bergamo is also home to numerous culinary delights and many notable restaurants and cafes. Cafe Tasso is one of the most famous and is located in the central piazza. Among the the local dishes, one pasta known as Casonei is very well loved in Bergamo as is the ubiquitous Polenta.

Cafe Tasso

Eating in Bergamo is not a generally great for your waistline. The foods are heavy but delicious. One way to walk off the calories is by trekking up and down Bergamo’s hills instead of using the local funicular.

To wash down some of these delicacies, the nearby Valcalepio provides decent red and white wines made from a variety of grapes, usually international varieties. Local grapes such as Marzemino, Rossolo, and Groppello have given way to Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet. Valcalepio does not export too many of its products, not yet at least. One wine from the area was recently awarded the Denominazione d’Orgine Controllata e Garantita (D.O.C.G.) designation, Moscato di Scanzo. A red dessert wine, it is delicious with chocolate.

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Traveling In Italy, Agritourism Concept Comes To US

October 1, 2009

It is striking how many ideas which become big trends in the United States have actually started in Italy. The Slow Food movement which began in Italy with Carlo Petrini has become a national phenomenon.Slow Food began as Arcigola which was created in 1986 to resist the opening of a McDonald’s near the Spanish steps in Rome.

Many people think the movement came out of California but Italians were ahead of the game. Eating local, seasonal produce has been an Italian tradition forever. Clearly other countries have also been following the same rhythms but it is the Italians who codified them.

Another very Italian concept is now making headway in the United States as well, agritourism. Farm stays or rural homesteads could be a definition. In Italy this way of traveling around and staying in rural areas throughout the country began earlier but really took off in the 1990s. Today’s Tasting Table daily report reports on this new phenomenon in the United States.

When staying at an Italian agritourism, typically you can do a number of activities from horse back riding to trekking or simply do nothing at all. Staying at an agritourism can also be somewhat less expensive than staying at a hotel. Often they rent apartments which have kitchens. Many tend to have restaurants or Osterie where they serve their own food and wines.

When booking your next vacation to Italy, consider this as a possible option. Agritourisms tend to be located both near cities and in rural areas. Some have week long stays and others are used much like a hotel, for a shorter stay. They can be an extremely useful option when going to a trade fair such as Vinitaly or Pitti Uomo in Florence or any other large fair where rooms in the cities usually fill up.

Tuscany, Umbria, Le Marche and some other regions in Central Italy have an extension nextwork of Agritourisms. Try one the next time you go on a vacation. It is likely you will not be disappointed.

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Back To School Blues- Sindrome da Rientro? Pumpkin Ravioli Offers Consolation

September 8, 2009

It is the start of the Autumn season with vacations ending, children going back to school, and everyone going back to their daily lives. Many suffer from the sindrome da rientro. While nothing is like summer, the Autumn can also be a joyful time, particularly active both at home and in the vegetable garden. Flowers have changed with mums replacing geraniums and tomatoes are soon to be picked from the vines. Fall brings wonderful fruits and vegetables. Squash are numerous and recipes for pumpkin ravioli begin to grace the covers of magazines in just a few weeks time.

Pumpkin ravioli is a signature dish in Northern Italy, particularly in the city of Mantova. While it traditionally is eaten between November and Christmas, any day in the Autumn can be an excuse to make ravioli with pumpkin, especially if the sage in your garden is all dried out.

Mantova is a beautiful city located in the province of Lombardy in Northern Italy. Mantova was home to the famous Gonzaga family since the start of the 14th century. As in many important Italian families, the Gonzagas put their stamp on Mantova and its architecture.

They built the huge Palazzo Ducale which absolutely dominates the city. Just like Versailles, this palace also has its own Hall of Mirrors. The palace contains an incredible fresco cycle by the world renowned painter Mantegna in the Camera degli Sposi or bridal chamber. If you see nothing else in Mantova, this should not be missed.

Another incredible building in the city is Palazzo Te which was built by Giulio Romano in 1534 for Federico II Gonzaga. The church of Sant’Andrea built in the 11th century is the oldest church in the city and one of the most beautiful. Mantegna (1431-1506) is buried in this church in the first chapel on the left after the entrance. Mantova is not a large city so you will have plenty of time to take in these sites and enjoy a delicious dish of pumpkin ravioli.

If instead you have no plans for a trip, this website gives you a step by step recipe on how to make both the ravioli and the filling. Buon appetito!

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A Ligurian Treat: Trofie al Pesto

August 27, 2009

All 20 of Italy’s regions have specific culinary traditions but most have at least one or two signature dishes that are on almost every menu in the region. One of the most ubiquitous and the most delicious of Ligurian treats is their homemade squiggly pasta called trofie which are generally served with pesto. Pesto can be made in a number of ways. The basic pesto ingredients are basil, garlic, pinoli nuts, cheese and oil. In Liguria, many cooks add green beans and potatoes to the dish. You can either purchase pesto or make it at home.

The pasta is a bit more laborious but here is a great recipe from a blog by Helen Rennie. Buying trofie in New York can present somewhat of a challenge but fresh pasta producers such as Raffetto’s in the West Village or Borgattis on Arthur Avenue would be a good place to begin your search.

If all of this seems too much, you can hop over to Scuderia on 6th Avenue and order this lovely dish. A great wine to drink while eating pesto is the local Vermentino, a white wine which is made in Liguria, in parts of Tuscany and in Sardinia. The best Vermentino from Liguria come from an area called Colli di Luni. This summer dish is light and is always a crowd pleaser at dinner parties as well.

Often overlooked by tourists who opt to vacation in Tuscany, Liguria has much to offer. Renowned for its small picturesque villages perched on hills overlooking the Mediterranean, it is also a wonderful place to hike as well as scuba dive or sail. Many northern Italians tend to spend their weekends here and part of the summer. Liguria can also be a great place to vacation with young children as the sea is relatively shallow and calm close to the shoreline. On your next visit, keep Liguria in mind for a holiday jaunt. You won’t be disappointed.

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