A Look At An Italian Hog Raised In The Wild: The Cinta Senese

October 6, 2009

Italy raises many hogs for its numerous charcuterie products, sauces and roasts but not all of these hogs are created equal. A limited few are very lucky and very special and are raised outdoors, practically in the wild. One such hog is the Cinta Senese which resides in the countryside of the Tuscan city of Siena. The Cinta Senese been grown in this area since the Middle Ages. It’s presence is even seen in a 14th century fresco painted by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, “The Allegory of Good Government” for the Palazzo Comunale of Siena.

The Cinta Senese is the only hog native to Tuscany to have survived. It is slightly different looking than many other hogs. It has a long snout, black hair and a white band or a cinta around its middle. The hogs roam free in the woods, eating grass, roots, tubers and acorns.

Specifically, the Cinta Senese’s natural habitat is around the beautiful small town of Monteriggioni, an entirely medieval hamlet enclosed within a circular wall and perched on a hill. The economy in the middle ages was based on agriculture and the raising of hogs was essential both for the products that they produced for sale as well as for the food they provided for the farmers.

The Cinta Senese is an ancient race and is now a Denominazione d’Origine Protetta (DOP). It’s official name is Suino Cinto Toscano DOP.

In the past there had been some cross breeding between different types of hogs but in the last decade, local farmers have return to raising hogs of this particular race in order to save it from extinction.

Another reason that it made such as comeback is because it has a higher percentage (57%) of “good” fat as opposed to a normal pig’s 50%, which makes the meat both tastier and healthier.

Most of the products that come from these hogs are consumed within Tuscany, a mecca for tourism all year round.

You can find these products in a number of places abroad as well. Academia Barilla, for example, offers some of these products for sale in the United States.

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Fall Brings Thoughts of Pappardelle al Cinghiale or Wild Boar Sauce

September 17, 2009

Today’s cold weather brings to mind not just a raincoat or a sweater but comfort foods and warm rooms. The nip in the air leads one to think about soups, pastas and roasted meats.

Fall is also a time of harvest festivals and local sagre in Italy. One classic dish which is a favorite, especially in Tuscany, is pappardelle al cinghiale or wild boar sauce.

Wild boar are actually quite prevalent in Italy and according to food expert Kyle Phillips,, the numbers are increasing because of the introduction of a new species from Eastern Europe. On this page, Kyle gives a host of recipes which use Cinghiale.

Cinghiale can be made into salami, used as a carpaccio meat or eaten as a roast but the most traditional way that it is served is in a meat sauce or ragu. A classic pairing is with pappardelle pasta. Pappardelle are similar to fettucine but are somewhat wider.

Luckily for New Yorkers, this lovely dish has made it onto the menus of many New York restaurants including Macelleria , Col Legno in the East Village and Cipolla Rossa, among others.

You can also buy homemade sauce at gourmet food shops, although truly delicious cinghiale is hard to find. It must be cooked just right otherwise the meat can become tough.

If a trip to Tuscany is not imminent, at least one has options. Fall wouldn’t be the Fall without at least one dish of pappardelle al cinghiale.

This dish can be paired with a great sangiovese based wine. Sangiovese has considerable acidity and will balance out some of the strong flavors of the cinghiale without covering them completely. A Chianti Classico from any of the seven sub-denominations would work perfectly.

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Is Farro the New Orzo? Tuscan Mainstay Makes A Splash in the U.S.

September 1, 2009

Farro, a form of wheat that has its’ husk intact, is making a splash in the United States. A grain that is traditionally eaten in Tuscany, Abruzzo and Lazio, Farro may just be the new orzo, another grain from Italy that has become a mainstay on many menus.

Farro is arguably more rustic than orzo. It is darker in color and has a delicious nutty and firm flavor. Tuscans use farro for soups, as an alternative to pasta or as a side dish. Much whole wheat pasta is made from farro as are many desserts. Farro can also be used in salads instead of other grains such as quinoa.

Farro is also extremely easy to make and is generally cooked in the same way that you would make rice or orzo. It is supposed to be chewier than rice so it can be cooked for a shorter period of time. In it’s easiest form, it is delicious with some fresh tomato sauce, basil and pepperoncino (macerated red pepper).

Farro is an ancient grain which first came to light in the Middle East. From there, it spread to Italy where it has been grown for centuries. It is somewhat harder to grow than other forms of wheat and therefore has been less popular in other areas of the world.

In Italy, you can generally find farro both in the main supermarkets and in health food stores. Farro is considered to confer healthy benefits and has very low cholesterol. In the United States, you can find farro is some high end Italian grocery stores or online at a variety of websites.

It is unlikely that we will see farro on every menu any time soon which is too bad because the nutty flavors go very well with fall meats, wines and vegetables. A healthy soup of farro and legumes is perfect for a cool fall evening with a glass of sangiovese. While one doesn’t want summer to end, farro reminds me there are some lovely fall foods and farro is one of them.

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Eating Pici al Ragu in Montepulciano

August 25, 2009

Pici, a thick and hand rolled spaghetti like pasta, is easy to find in a number of towns in Tuscany. One such place is the lovely hilltop town of Montepulciano. Montepulciano is located in southern Tuscany on the border with Umbria.

Pici al ragu is a fabulous local dish which can be incredibly filling and works well with the local wines, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or the Rosso di Montepulciano. Pici are somewhat harder to find in the United States but don’t despair.

Should you choose to go to Montepulciano, this period of time is perfect as you can attend the Bravio festival, an ancient rite which was brought back in the 1970s. Strong men roll huge wine barrels up and down the hills of the city in a race to the finish line, the Duomo in Piazza Grande.

The city is divided into eight contrade (neighborhoods) and is currently in the middle of a week long holiday with renaissance costumes, drummers and flag twirlers giving exhibitions on a daily basis. Each contrada serves lunch and dinner for one week in their local headquarters. Locals dress in the colors of the contrada and the streets are decked out with flags.

Pici are on almost every menu and can be eaten with different sauces but the classic combination is with the homemade ragu. The ragu can be made with pork, beef, wild boar or sausage. While this dish sounds heavy for the summer months, it can actually be light and delicate. It is also extremely filling and therefore can be a great meal for lunch followed later in the day by a lighter dinner.

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