Tuscany « Radicchioblog

Porchetta Sandwich – Juicy Perfection

June 18, 2010

One of my closest friends works in a lovely wine bar in NYC – Cellar 58. So as I love to see my friend and drink some good Italian wine, (in Italian we call this “Prendere due piccioni con una fava” which basically means “To kill two birds with one stone”) I go to visit her as often as possible. Needless to say I have elected my favorite dish on the bar menu: the porchetta sandwich. Porchetta is a succulent pork roast, typical of the traditional cuisine of Lazio, Marche, Umbria and Tuscany (Cellar 58’s menu has been inspired by the cuisine of these regions). The exact location of where porchetta was first conceived is still a culinary mystery. People from Ariccia, in Lazio, claim paternity of the original recipe, while in Umbria it is told that Norcia, town known for pig farms since the times of the Ancient Romans, is the culprit. Apparently even the people of the Marche have claimed to be the originators…

Porchetta is a tender and juicy hunk of pork encased within fatty, crispy skin (crackling) made by cooking together rosemary, garlic, fennel, sage, salt and pepper and spreading them over pork loin. The meat is then rolled up before being tied with butcher’s twine and roasted (usually for about two and a half hours). The pork is so flavorful you really do not need any other accompanying ingredient. There are however regional differences: tradition calls for two basic ways to season porchetta. In southern Tuscany, southern Castelli di Roma and in other areas of Central Italy, it is seasoned mainly with rosemary. In northern Lazio, Umbria and Marche it is seasoned mainly with wild fennel which gives it a unique taste and aroma.

The Porchetta sandwich is not commonly eaten during a meal, but between meals as a “snack” or as a craving after a long night out (drinking and dancing). It is usually eaten warm, sliced and stuffed into fresh bread (ciabatta is a fave) on the street (from special trucks), outside a nightclub, during concerts, open air markets, town sagre and sporting events. Porchetta needs to be eaten right away, there is no time to waste. The most flavorful parts are those with equal parts of fat and lean meat that are marbled with stuffing. The crispiness of the skin best indicates the freshness of the meat.

In Tuscany or Umbria, street sellers are called porchettai, while in the Castelli di Roma area they are known as porchettari. NYC is still porchettari-free so when in need of this special sandwich going to Cellar 58 is the best solution. (One can also stop by Porchetta, where Chef Sara Jenkins makes porchetta sandwiches to takeout).

By Natasha Lardera

3 Comments | Lazio, Le Marche, Restaurants, salt, Tuscany, Umbria | Tagged: Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Lazio, Le Marche, Tuscany, Umbria | Permalink
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Pecorino cheese – A Versatile Ingredient For Summer

June 14, 2010

Summer begins on June 21 but we are already in the throws of seasonal summer produce which can be eaten on its own or blended with cheeses and used in pasta. One of the great cheeses that work well with all of this summer produce is Pecorino.

It comes from sheep’s milk and is made in a host of regions in Italy including Sardinia, Sicily, Tuscany and Lazio. The cheese tastes slightly different in the various regions. Pecorino can be made into a fresh style cheese or into an aged or “stagionato” one. Sometimes peppercorns or truffles are added to the cheese to enhance the flavor. Pecorino can be a flavorful cheese or can be somewhat mild, it depends on the aging and the style of cheese you are buying.

Pecorino Romano is the most ubiquitous in the United States. It is quite salty. Much of the Pecorino that is made in Tuscany is made by Sardinians who emigrated there.

Pecorino can be used in salads, eaten on its own at the end of a meal, eaten with pears or used instead of Parmigiano on pasta. Pecorino is an extremely versatile cheese and a good one to keep in the refrigerator at all times.

By Susannah Gold

Leave a Comment » | Cheeses, Cooking, Lazio, Sardinia, Sicily, Tuscany | Tagged: aged cheese, grated cheese, Italian Cheese, Lazio, Pasta, pecorino, Sardinia, Sicily, Summer produce, Tuscany | Permalink
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A vacation for aspiring chefs

June 2, 2010

As I am planning my upcoming Italian vacation, I am researching cool and different places with unique things to do. Although I was born and raised in that beautiful country there is still so much I have not seen, so my goal for the upcoming month is to get home, drop my suitcase and pack a smaller one for several short trips.

One of my first destinations will be the house where Monsignor Giacomo della Casa, Italian bishop, poet and translator who is mostly known for his popular treatise on good manners, Galateo, lived. Monsignor della Casa di Borgo San Lorenzo (FI) is a retreat for those who love to live life at a slow pace, taking time to enjoy good food, a beautiful landscape and the company of friends. The place offers some incredible classes and it is my intention to try them all. The “Tutti chef al Monsignore” program features meetings with the resort’s chefs where the unique taste and simplicity of Tuscan cuisine is explored. It is a fun way to learn the traditional dishes of Tuscan cuisine in a breathtaking environment. In the “house of good manners” a team of experts leads all guests who desire to participate in this program, in the preparation of true delicacies with impeccable style. Among pots, pans and other tools, the art of Tuscan cooking is shared among food lovers who wish to prepare an authentic menu which features homemade fresh pasta (from pappardelle to gnudi), meats from the area (exquisite wild boar), and vegetables gathered in the resort’s garden (do not miss seasonal zucchini flowers). This program ends on January 9th, 2011. Other culinary recreational activities such as olive oil and/or Chianti tastings, saffron and/or chestnut picking, visits to the local fresh produce markets and to cheese making facilities can also be enjoyed. I think I want to try them all.

By Natasha Lardera

2 Comments | Cooking, Italian Regions, Travelling, Tuscany | Tagged: Italian Chefs, Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Tuscany | Permalink
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Il Cantuccio- Florentine Delights In The West Village

May 14, 2010

Il Cantuccio is a great little artisanal bake shop that just opened in the West Village in Manhattan. It offers a nice array of pastries including its famed Cantucci which come in a variety of flavors such as Cantucci with Almonds (original version), with Chocolate, with Prunes and with Apricots. Owned by three partners, Camilla, Simone and Leonardo, this lovely spot on the corner of Christopher Street really brought me back to Florence.

-Susannah Gold

Camilla noted that Americans haven’t yet caught on to the joys of eating schiacchiata. Schiacchiata is the name for Tuscan flatbread. It comes in both sweet and not sweet versions. Schiacchiata all’olio is one of the most typical afternoon snacks in Florence. Schiacciata is more familiar to Americans with the name Focaccia.
It is delicious as a sandwich bread with prosciutto or other meats or cheese or on its own.

Il Cantuccio is a sister restaurant to one in Florence on the Via Nazionale. There is also a third location in another town in Tuscany called Campo Bisenzio. The bakery has seating and is open from 800am to Midnight. They serve coffee and other treats for breakfast or brunch as well.

Although they have only been open for 19 days as of this blog post, it already feels like a neighborhood hangout. Warm and friendly, Il Cantuccio is a great place for a coffee. They also serve an almond paste cookie not to be missed called Brutti Buoni – loosely translated it means ugly but good.
-SG

1 Comment | Baking, Cooking, Dessert, Italian Regions, olive oil, Tuscany | Tagged: Cantucci with Almonds, Cantucci with Chocolate, Cantucci with Prunes, Florence, focaccia, Il Cantuccio, New bakery in West Village, Schiacchiata, Schiacchiata all'olio, Tuscany | Permalink
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Italian Tripe Despite Humble Origins Is Often Considered A Delicacy

May 6, 2010

Trippa or Tripe is often considered a delicacy in Italy despite having very humble origins, much like the craze for Roman peasant cooking that has taken New York by storm. In Florence for example Trippa alla Fiorentina is a very well known dish. Tripe is made from cow’s stomach and sometimes other internal parts. In Florence, tripe is often sold off of carts the way hot dogs are hawked on the streets of New York. A very famous version of Tripe in Florence is called Lampredotto, a well cooked version of the food. Florence isn’t the only place in Italy where tripe is well loved and tripe can be cooked in many ways as these recipes show.

Tripe is often cooked with tomatoes but it can also be flavored with mint, typical in Rome or cooked with an eggplant dish, a staple in Palermo or with parsley in Turin. Tripe is seen in menus throughout Italy and is used by traditional cooks and well as modernists.

In New York City, tripe can be found in many ethnic restaurants but it hasn’t yet created the splash that other parts of the quinto quarto or internal organs have. It will surely have its moment in the sun. It is just a question of time.

-Susannah Gold

Leave a Comment » | Cooking, Dining, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italian Regions, Piedmont, Sicily, Tuscany | Tagged: Florence, Friuli Venezia Giulia, internal meats, Italian humble dishes, lampredotto, Quinto quarto, Rome, tripe, trippa alla fiorentina, trippa alla romana, Turin | Permalink
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Italian Crostini – A Great Way To Start A Meal

March 2, 2010

Italian crostini are a great way to start any meal. This dish is typically from Tuscany and is generally an appetizer. If you order a plate of crostini, what will come to your table will be four or five slices of bread with a variety of toppings including the most typical, a chicken liver spread. The other “crostini” will generally be made with chopped tomato, often called a bruschetta. Additional crostini are made with ham, garlic or other toppings.

Crostini with liver pate is not seen quite as often in the rest of Italy but bruschetta can be found all over Italy and in many parts of the United States. One of the things that makes Italian cuisine so fascinating is the diversity in the food stuffs offered in throughout the country.

Here’s a recipe for making the Chicken liver and Prosciutto Pate

150 grams of chicken livers
130 grams of prociutto
40 grams of butter
3 tbs of Olive Oil
1 onion
milk or broth
2 sage leaves
8 sticks of rosemary

In a casserole, heat half of the butter and oil and put in the prosciutto to give it more flavor together with the chopped onion. For at least 30 minutes, continue to add in either the milk or the broth, constantly stirring it. Add the chopped liver and the sage. Let it boil for exactly three minutes, continuing to stir the pot. Take it off of the flame, chop up the contents of the pot, and put it back on the flame. Bring it to a boil and then add the remaining butter, continue to cook for three minutes and turn it off. Cut the bread and spread the pate. Put the rosemary branches on the bottom of the plate and the crostini on top.

2 Comments | Cooking, Dining, Tuscany | Tagged: Chicken liver pate, Crostini, Tuscany | Permalink
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Italian Saffron Adds A Variation To Many Dishes

February 25, 2010

Saffron which is called Zafferano in Italian was originally native to Southern Asia but today grows all over the world, including in Italy. The spice comes from the flower of the saffron crocus (Crocus sativus). Saffron is used in many different dishes in Italy including in the famed Risotto alla Milanese.

Oddly enough Saffron was added to that recipe as far back as the 1500s. The saffron is added midway through cooking that classic Milanese dish. Saffron brings a rich golden color to the dish.

Two types of Saffron are recognized as being worthy of the DOP or designated original product (denominazione d’origine protetta) category in Italy, Zafferano dell’Aquila DOP and Zafferano di San Gimignano DOP. The former comes from toasting the stems of the Crocus Sativus plant and is sold either as think sticks of as a powder. This Saffron is very red in color. The latter, Zafferano di San Gimignano DOP, is also a product of toasting the flower stems and is also red in color or sometimes more “orange.”

Saffron should be kept in a dry place with little to no humidity and not too much light. Saffron is used in first course, main dishes, with vegetables and even in desserts such as gelato. Saffron has always been quite expensive and is considered a delicacy in many cultures. Only a small drop of saffron needs to be used to enhance the aromas and flavors of food.

3 Comments | abruzzo, Cooking, Ingredients, Tuscany | Tagged: DOP products, Saffron, Zafferano, Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP, Zafferano di San Gimignano | Permalink
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Carnevale: Celebrating With A Delicious Schiacciata Alla Fiorentina

February 16, 2010

Today is Fat Tuesday the end of Carnevale and a huge celebration in many parts of the world, particularly in Italy. Two very big festivals take place in Italy, one in Venice and the other in Viareggio on the Tuscan coast. In Florence, children dress up in costumes and throw confetti to the wind. At home, they are usually treated to a luscious piece of Tuscan sponge cake otherwise known as Schiacciata alla Fiorentina. This delicious light and airy dessert is eaten throughout the year but is a favorite around Carnevale. Lighter than American sponge cake, it can be eaten in a variety of ways including filled with whipped cream. Try this easy recipe or make a quick trip to Tuscany, whichever is easier…

SCHIACCIATA ALLA FIORENTINA (FLORENTINE SPONGE CAKE)
This is a delicious spongy cake, popular around Carnival time in February but now found year-round, particularly in shops in downtown Florence.

Makes: 12 servings

INGREDIENTS

250g all-purpose flour, sifted
2 teaspoons baking powder
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (or 50g lard)
1 cup milk
grated orange peel from 1 orange
½ tsp saffron powder
90g sugar
2 eggs
¼ tsp salt
powdered sugar to decorate

Preparation:

In a medium bowl, mix all of the ingredients and beat thoroughly until the batter is smooth and thick with no lumps. Grease a shallow rectangular baking pan and pour in the batter (the schiacciata should be about 2 cm high). Bake at 150°c for 30 minutes. Sprinkle plenty of powdered sugar on top of the cake.

If you want and have a sweet tooth, you can slice the cake and fill it with whipped cream or frosting. You can also put a crown in the middle during carnevale. Whoever finds the crown has good luck, legend has it.

1 Comment | Baking, Cooking, Tuscany, Uncategorized | Tagged: Carnevale, Schiacciata alla Fiorentina, Tuscany | Permalink
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Tuscan Cantucci & Vin Santo – The Perfect Way to End A Meal

February 9, 2010

The word Biscotti has become part of the American lexicon. It has come to mean a long thin cookie that sometimes has nuts and sometimes doesn’t. Biscotti in Italian really means cookie not just that particular kind of cookie which is really a version of the Cantucci di Prato, an ancient Tuscan dessert that is served at the end of the meal.

Usually very dry and crunchy, it is often served with a small glass of Vin Santo. Some people dip the cookies into the Vin Santo. The cookies are very easy to make and are baked twice. The Vin Santo is a much longer process.

Here’s a recipe for the cookies which would make a great Valentine’s day gift. This recipe is for about 36 cookies.

INGREDIENTS
* 500 g bread flour
* 300 g sugar
* 250 g almonds, unpeeled
* 50 g pine nuts
* 4 eggs
* 1 tsp baking powder
* pinch of salt
* grated peel of one lemon
* a baking or cookie sheet, parchment paper

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (360°F).
2. Mix the flour and sugar in a bowl. Add eggs and the rest of the ingredients until the ingredients stay together in a ball of dough.
3. On a clean surface, turn out the dough and shape it into a 3 cm wide roll as long as your baking sheet. Cover the baking sheet with a piece of parchment paper to help keep the cookies from sticking to the sheet (as no butter or oil is used). Place roll on the sheet, lightly flattening the top part of the roll.
4. Place sheet in oven and bake for 30 minutes, then remove the roll from the oven. The roll should be warm and firm; place it on a cutting board and cut diagonally, making 1 cm wide slices.
5. Place the slices back on the baking sheet on one of the cut sides, making sure to leave some space between each slice and place the sheet back into the oven, lowering the temperature a bit to 150°C (300°F). Bake for 15 minutes, then take the cookies out and turn them onto the other side and bake an additional 15 minutes. Remove and let cool.

Vin Santo or the wine of saints is an Italian dessert wine that is produced in Tuscany, Umbria, Veneto, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and Trentino.

White grapes (Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia and Canaiolo in Tuscany, Garganega and Gambellara in the Veneto and other grapes in different regions) are hand picked in the Autumn months of October and November. The bunches are left to hang dry from the rafters in a room called the Vinsantaia, which generally has many windows in order to promote air circulation and drying.

When the grapes have dried, which can go into January, they are pressed and the must that is obtained goes into the caratelli (small chestnut barrels) for fermentation. After the initial fermentation the wine is racked at least once and the caratelli are placed under the roof of the winery. Each area has a different tradition in terms of how long the wine remains in the caratelli before being bottled and eventually sold into the market.

Vin santo traditionally has a honeyed, orange taste with hints of dried fruits and nuts on the nose and palate. Usually it is an off dry or sweet wine and is the perfect way to end a special meal.

2 Comments | Baking, Dessert wines, Italian Regions, Tuscany | Tagged: Biscotti, Cantucci, Dessert Wine, Dried Grapes, Malavasia, Trebbiano Toscano, Tuscany, Vin Santo | Permalink
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A Focaccia A Day Can Keep The Doctor Away

December 15, 2009

Well perhaps the headline is an exaggeration but Focaccia is truly one of God’s inventions. Focaccia is an oven-baked bread and is somewhat similar to Pizza but is not exactly the same thing. The dough is a bit like pizza dough in texture and uses high-gluten flour, oil, water, salt and yeast.

Easy to make, this bread and pizza substitute can be made using many different toppings, including, of all things, grapes. This recipe for Schiacciata all’Uva is from the central Italian region of Tuscany. This variation on Focaccia is generally made following the end of harvest, in October and November. We like it anytime.

Red Grape Focaccia or Tuscan Schiacciata

Ingredients for forty 2 inch square pieces:

2 envelopes active dry yeast
Pinch of salt
2 cups of warm water
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
5 cups of all purpose flour
2 teaspoons sea salt
12 oz of red seedless grapes

Preparation:

Combine the yeast, sugar and water in a small bowl and let sit until bubbly, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil.

Put the flour and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook. Pour in the yeast mixture and mix on low speed until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 3 to 5 minutes.

Transfer the sticky dough to a generously floured 6 inch square section of a counter or board. Dust the dough liberally with flour, parting the dough to form a rectangle. Let the dough sit for 5 minutes.

Dust your hands with flour and stretch the dough in each direction to twice its size. Fold the dough over itself in three, letter style and form a rectangle. Brush the dough with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, dust with flour and loosely cover with plastic wrap. Let it sit for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, line a standard 11 x 17 inch rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper. Drizzle the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil over the parchment and spread it to cover.

Transfer the dough to the cookie sheet with a plastic scraper or spatula, trying to retain the rectangular shape as much as possible. Flip the dough over and use your fingertips to stretch the dough until it fits inside the pan. Distribute the grapes across the dough, pushing them in slightly. Put the dough in a warm place to rise for 1 hour. Alternatively, the dough can be covered loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Remove the pan from the refrigerator 3 hours before baking.

Preheat oven to 500 F.

Lightly brush the dough with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place the pan in the oven, lower the temperature to 450F and bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking the focaccia until it begins to turn a light golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer to a wire rack. Carefully peel off the parchment if necessary. Cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing and serving.

Recipe from Wine Bar Food by Cathy and Tony Manutuano

Leave a Comment » | Baking, Cooking, Tuscany | Tagged: focaccia, schiacciata all'uva | Permalink
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