Icardi, A Biodynamic Producer From Piedmont

May 28, 2010

Altacucina held a lovely wine tasting on Monday, May 24 showcasing Italian organic and biodynamic wines. By chance I met Claudio Icardi a few days after the event. We discussed the wines at length and how he came to biodynamics as a philosophy and what it has done for his wines.

A word about biodynamic viticulture first. The field was started by Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) whose philosophy eventually evolved into the biodynamic movement. It aims to take into account the entire ecosystem around a plant or a person. Practically what this means is that the vineyards are planted according to certain phases of the moon and other practices while pest management techniques are all natural without using chemicals or pesticides.

Claudio Icardi said that initially he thought it was all a bunch of silly ideas but that after practicing biodynamic viticulture and winemaking for a period of time, he became so convinced of its merits that he now promotes it throughout Italy and teaches at various universities. He also told me for the first five years he threw out the wine because it wasn’t up to the standard that he wanted. “I wanted to make a great wine not just an okay one. My model was Romanee Conti,” he added.

He likened traditional interventions in the vineyard as giving a medication to someone who was sick that took care of the immediate cause but not the underlying effect. That is the difference between the holistic approach and the traditional approach.

The end result of this all are wonderful wines made from traditional Piedmont grape varieties such as Barbara, Nebbiolo, Cortese, Moscato d’Asti and a few international varieties. The wines are imported by Vinifera.

-Susannah Gold

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Italian Tripe Despite Humble Origins Is Often Considered A Delicacy

May 6, 2010

Trippa or Tripe is often considered a delicacy in Italy despite having very humble origins, much like the craze for Roman peasant cooking that has taken New York by storm. In Florence for example Trippa alla Fiorentina is a very well known dish. Tripe is made from cow’s stomach and sometimes other internal parts. In Florence, tripe is often sold off of carts the way hot dogs are hawked on the streets of New York. A very famous version of Tripe in Florence is called Lampredotto, a well cooked version of the food. Florence isn’t the only place in Italy where tripe is well loved and tripe can be cooked in many ways as these recipes show.

Tripe is often cooked with tomatoes but it can also be flavored with mint, typical in Rome or cooked with an eggplant dish, a staple in Palermo or with parsley in Turin. Tripe is seen in menus throughout Italy and is used by traditional cooks and well as modernists.

In New York City, tripe can be found in many ethnic restaurants but it hasn’t yet created the splash that other parts of the quinto quarto or internal organs have. It will surely have its moment in the sun. It is just a question of time.

-Susannah Gold

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Asti Spumante New York Week Nov. 28 to Dec. 5

November 19, 2009

Alta Cucina is working with the Consorzio Asti D.O.C.G. on its promotional “Asti Spumante New York Week.” At a press conference at the Alta Cucina Epicurean Center on Wednesday, Asti was paired first with a variety of cheeses and then was used to make a Risotto with butter, cheese and Asti. It was delicious and light while satisfying as only a risotto can be.

Cooking with wines has long been a tradition in Italy and many other countries. Making Risotto with Asti was a new twist on this fashion. The semi sweet notes in the wine worked perfectly with the cheese and butter of the risotto. This is a subtle pairing without any strong or overwhelming flavors but one that was immensely pleasurable. As one guest said, drinking Asti felt like seeing a dear old friend.

Chefs at 26 restaurants, wine bars and wine stores will be offering their recipes for using Asti when cooking. It will be interesting to see what they opt for. This risotto was absolutely perfect and will be imitated by all those in attendance.

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Venchi Chocolates: A Taste of Piedmont

November 3, 2009

Venchi is an Italian chocolate maker that has been around for over 100 years. The stiff somewhat formal bars can be found all over Northern Italy and have now made it to the United States.

The company was founded in 1878 by Salvatore Venchi in Turin. Venchi makes more than 350 types of chocolate but arguably became famous for their dark chocolate which is a 75% blend of Criollo and Forastero cocoa beans.

In the chocolate market, Italy competes with Belgium and France, better known chocolate making countries. There are four principal chocolate producing regions in Italy: Sicily, Tuscany, Piedmont and the Veneto.

All four of these regions have long traditions making chocolates which span hundreds of years. Each region produces a different type of chocolate and uses particular ingredients. The Medici family from the Tuscan city of Florence, for example, was among the first to drink hot chocolate in cups. Their chocolate apparently was enhanced by floral notes such as Jasmine flowers while some modern Tuscan producers also use refined local olive oil to flavor their products.

Piedmont on the other hand has always been quite well known for their chocolates which are made with hazelnuts known as nocciole in Italian while the Veneto makes chocolates with local products such as grappa or honey.

Sicily, known for chocolates with pepperoncino, citrus fruits and pistachios has a very long history with chocolate which began under Spanish rule. The Spaniards had discovered chocolate through their possessions in the Americas. The most famous area where chocolate is made in Sicily is a county called Modica. Chocolate from Modica is very unique. It is textured and crunchy and quite unlike almost every other chocolate around the world today. In fact, chocolate from Modica is more similar to that of the Aztec Indians than it is to the traditions of Piedmont or Tuscany where creamier chocolates are made.

These types of regional particularities are what make Italian chocolate so special and so interesting. Be it a cremino from Piedmont or a crunchy bar from Modica or a modern chocolate from Tuscany, Italy seemingly has a chocolate for every taste.

Currently there are no denominazione d’origine protetta (DOP) products in Italy in terms of chocolate. This designation is usually assigned to foodstuffs from a particular area or region such as Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, Radicchio from Treviso and Bresaola from Valtellina. One hopes a chocolate DOP will be assigned soon.

Chocolate production has become much more refined as food safety, traceability and authenticity have become buzzwords in the food business. One example of this is that there are now ““cru” cacao plantations much like the revered 1855 Classification of the First Growths of Bordeaux. These plantations command higher prices and the quality of the cacao are considered to be superior.

Chocolate, just like wine, is judge by its aromas, flavors and color. Venchi’s dark chocolate blend has a dark red mahogany color and floral and toasted notes. Chocolates can be described as light, medium or full bodied.

Venchi’s website gives an elaborate description of the process of making chocolate. There are four principal phases: fermentation, drying, toasting and aeration. These four phases can take different amounts of time depending on what type of product one is looking for in terms of their chocolate.

Venchi has also recently opened a sales point in the Milan Malpensa airport where one can buy a variety of their products. A nice gift, these chocolates are a little touch of Piedmont in your mouth.

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Small Miracles: Robiola di Roccaverano DOP – A Great Cheese From Northern Italy

October 29, 2009

Robiola is a soft cheese from the Stracchino family that comes from Northern Italy, generally from the valleys in Piedmont and Lombardy. It is a very ancient cheese and its’ origins go back to the time when Celtic Liguri tribes ruled Italy. Robiola was even mentioned by Pliny the Elder in his Natural History.

Robiola is made with a mixture of cow, goat and sheep milk. There are a few different versions of Robiola. From Lombardy, it tends to be whitish in color and have a rind while the Piedmont version is more yellow in color, is fresher and sometimes is used as a topping on pizza.

robiolaroccaverano

There is one DOP or Denominazione di Origine Protetta version of Robiola called Robiola di Roccaverano DOP.

Robiola di Roccaverano is full-fat cheese that doesn’t ripen or age. It is made from a blend of up to 50% goat milk with the remaining 50% of sheep or cow milk or a mixture of both. Robiola di Roccaverano does not have a rind and is quite delicate in taste.

Roccaverano is a town in the province of Asti in Piedmont.

Robiola can be delicious with vegetables. An easy apertif would be a crostino or bread slice with robiola, radicchio or arugula.

Toast the bread and spread some olive oil on it, then add the Robiola, the vegetable which you can saute’ for a few minutes in butter, and eccoti…a lovely crostino.

Robiola is quite high in fat and therefore works very well with a wine with high acidity such as Barbera or Sangiovese. The two complement each other and neither one dominates. The cheese is relatively easy to find in the United States as well. Formaggio Essex could be a good place to start looking for this scrumptious cheese.

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