Apulia « Radicchioblog

Canestrato Pugliese DOP Pairing With Moreno Cedroni Tangerine Jam

January 7, 2010

Italian cheeses are almost as numerous as indigenous grape varieties. Few of these cheeses, however, have received the prestigious denominazione d’origine protetta (DOP) designation. One of that has is the Canestrato Pugliese, a hard cheese from Apulia made with goat’s milk in the entire province of Foggia and parts of the province of Bari.

The cheese is usually aged for two to four months and can be enjoyed with fruit, vegetables or jams. One great pairing is with marmalade such as that of Moreno Cedroni offered at the Alta Cucina Store this month in a special promotion. Moreno Cedroni is an acclaimed Italian chef who has received two Michelin stars for his work. Cedroni has created a unique line of preserves to pair specifically with cheese. Young Canestrato pairs well with white wines or Rose’ as long as they are still dry wines.

After Canestrato is aged for two to four months, it is bathed in olive oil and can then be aged for a further eight to ten months. Aged Canestrato works very well with dishes from Apulia such as Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe. In this case, the dish could be paired with a heartier wine from Apulia such as a Salice Salentino.

The cheese gets it name from the baskets in which it is created. These reed baskets are known as Canestri. The cheese forms generally weigh anywhere between 7 to 15 kilos. On the palate, this cheese is quite aromatic when aged and a bit more delicate in its younger version.

1 Comment | Apulia, Cheeses | Tagged: Canestrato Pugliese, Italian Cheeses, Moreno Cedrone | Permalink
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Italian Olive Oil Offers Many Choices For Consumers

December 4, 2009

Italian olive oil is quite well known in the United States and has been for a long time. What is new however are the number of olive oils available and the differences among them. Numerous Italian regions produce olive oil and most of them are trying to get into the US marketplace. Among the most important are Tuscany, Umbria, Apulia, Sicilia, Calabria and Liguria. There are also areas in some of the other 20 regions that produce olive oil such as Lago di Garda in Lombardy/Veneto.

The olive was originally planted in the South Caucasus and spread from there to Rhodes, Cyprus and Crete and then to the entire Mediterranean basin. Olive cultivation in Apulia, for example, dates back to 800 a.c. when Greek settlers migrated to the region during the era called Magna Grecia. Some 40% of Italian olive oil actually comes from Apulia.

One of the characteristics of olive oil from Apulia is that it is quite full bodied, more so, for example, than oils from Liguria, Lake Garda or Tuscany. It has rich aromas and flavors and considerable nutritional characteristics including a high level of vitamin E and other substances which protect against degenerative diseases and aging.

Just like with wine grapes, there are many different types of olives, each producing oil with various characteristics. In Apulia, some of the varieties include:

Coratina which produces an olive oil that is fruity and slightly spicy.

Ogliarola which produces an oil that is almost sweet and has an aroma of almonds.

Ogliarola Garganica and Parenzana which make fruity and quite well balanced oil.

Cellina and Saracena which produce oil that can be almost salty.

Olive oil can also be used for numerous purposes in the kitchen and out. In the kitchen, some of the lighter oils such as those made from coratina work very well with salads. Other that are slightly heavier and are a bit spicy enhance grilled meats and vegetables. Still others work for frying foods.

The final product depends largely on the quality of the olive and how it is cared for during harvest and pressing. Following the harvest which should be done by hand as much as possible, olives are washed before being sorted and eventually pressed. Olives must be pressed within 24 hours after they are gathered.

Apulia has a number of products which have the special Denominazione d’orgine protetta (DOP) label including Olio Extravergine di oliva Collina di Brindisi DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Dauna DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Terra d’Otranto DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Terra di Bari DOP, and Olio Extravergine di oliva Terre Tarantine DOP.

While Apulia is only one of many regions in Italy that produces olive oil, it gives you an idea of how many oils there are and how each one has different characteristics depending on the terroir where they are grown, the cultivar and the climate conditions in that area. Check out the oils at Alta Cucina’s store.

1 Comment | Apulia, Dining, Ingredients, Italian Regions, olive oil, Uncategorized | Tagged: Alta Cucina Store, Apulia, olive oils from Italy | Permalink
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Instead of Making Apple Pie, Try Italy’s Cotognata

September 29, 2009

Apples are a universally liked fruit but often one doesn’t know what to do with them aside from making Apple Crisp or Apple pie. Here is a lovely recipe from Artusi for making apple marmalade. Mela cotogna translated means quince but you can try this recipe with some of the late ripening Apples.

Pellegrino Artusi was the author of the famous Italian cookbook La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiare Bene (The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well). He was born in Forlimpopoli, near the town of Forlì in Emilia Romagna. In his later life, he began to write a cookbook which he self published in the late 1800s. The recipes are still used today in many Italian kitchens and he is also celebrated for having been one of the first to unify recipes from all the different Italian regions in one book.

Cotognata:

2 pounds apples or quinces
2 1/2 cups sugar

Preparation:

Artusi suggests melting the sugar with a half cup of water. Once this has boiled, he then says to cut the apples into thin slices and stir them in a pot for 45 minutes. Once they are cooked, add the sugar mixture and cut the whole thing back into the pan. Cook at a very low heat until you get it to a certain density so that it doesn’t really move on the plate. You need to constantly mix the apples adding the sugar mixture as you work.

Once you take the mixture off the fire, let it sit for a bit and cool. You can actually cut this with a knife if it is the right density.

This dessert comes from the city of Lecce in the region of Apulia located in the toe of the Italian boot. A beautiful area, Apulian cuisine is famous for its desserts, cheeses, olive oils and wines.

1 Comment | Apulia, Cooking, Italian Regions | Tagged: Apulia, Cotognata | Permalink
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Italian Wines For July 4 Holiday

July 2, 2009

Italy offers a wide variety of wines that will work well with holiday fare for the July 4 celebrations. Many people will be out grilling and instead of serving a big Zinfandel, why not try a Primitivo di Manduria from Apulia. Many think that the grapes are related but recent research shows that the parent grape for Primitivo is actually a Croatian grape and that the two are not at all related. What they do have in common is that they can be big, juicy wines with a peppery note that can offset barbecued meats. If Primitivo is not your cup of tea, try an Aglianico from Campania or an Aglianico del Vulture from Basilicata, another region in the South of Italy. Also, a robust and full bodied wine, it is a bit softer on the palate with more fruit and fewer meaty flavors than Primitivo. If you aren’t serving meat but pasta dishes and lighter foods, any Sangiovese based wine will work very well. Red wines from Tuscany are mostly based on different clones of Sangiovese. Some are blended with international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Sangiovese is a fruity wine with high acidity. The acidity is what makes this such a food friendly wine. Acidity cuts through some of the heavier flavors and spices in food. Whatever you are serving, you can find an Italian wine to match. Check out these recipes for your holiday party.

1 Comment | Apulia, Basilicata, Campania, Cooking, Dining, Events | Tagged: Aglianico, Aglianico del Vulture, Altacucina, Barbecue, July 4 recipes, Primitivo di Manduria, Sangiovese | Permalink
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