Hitting the streets of Ferrara

August 31, 2010

On September 4th I have a blind date, but not with a guy… with a monument!
Yes, you got that right, let me explain. On September 4th, the city of Ferrara is hosting the first ever “Street Dinner”. This is a unique opportunity to enjoy art and food together; an ensemble of adventure, gastronomy, natural scenery, conviviality and mistery.
Chic but informal at the same time, the event welcomes a large number of gourmands who, armed with a table, a chair and a bag filled with delicacies, will only find out at the very last minute by what historical building or monument they are going to sit and enjoy all the provided local specialties.

All is possible thanks to text messaging: indeed all participants will find out their destinations step by step directly on their phones. The first text will provide the location of the “welcoming” aperitivo where people can mingle and get to know each other while sipping spumante. A second text will inform all of the location where to pick up the table, the chair and table settings plus the food bag (there are two different menus available. The actual dishes are a secret but you can choose between a meat-based or a fish-based menu). Thirty minutes later another text will inform each guest of their diner location. Some of these locations are, for example, the court of Castello Estense (a magnificent castle built in the center of the city), on Corso Ercole I d’Este with a view of Palazzo dei Diamanti (the house of the National Art Gallery, is one of the most famous buildings in Italy: the white marble exterior consisting of 8500 blocks are carved in the shape of diamonds), along the Listone of Ferrara (a beautiful square by the Duomo), in Via delle Volte, among the Ancient Walls and many other wonderful corners (such as one of the city’s beaches or bridges).

As I said, the menus, like everything else, are secret, but I hope that they will feature some of these local specialties:Cappellacci di zucca, pumpkin ravioli, are served with ragù or butter and sage sauce; tagliatelle, noodles with ragù or mushroom sauce, the maltagliati, irregularly shaped egg pasta cooked with beans, classic lasagna, green lasagna, pasticcio alla Ferrarese, a pie stuffed with maccheroni, béchamel, cheese and ragù with porcini mushrooms; riso con zucca e salsiccia, rice with pumpkin and sausages, or with fish Brodetto, a seafood broth. Rice is also prepared with eels, with ragù, cheese and porcini mushroom. Polenta is often served in place of pasta. It can be fried in butter or dressed with a sauce, cheese, meat or fish. Anguilla (eel) and polenta, polenta with ragù, polenta and sausages are common fare in the Ferrarese. As far as desserts are concerned: ciambella ferrarese is made with flour, eggs, butter and a little sugar; torta di mele is a sponge cake mixed with fresh apples sliced very thin; panpepato is a super rich chocolate cake with candied fruits and nuts, ginger, pepper and other spices and mandurlin dal pont are delicate and crispy cookies made with eggs, sugar and almonds.
For more information: www.streetdinner.it
- Natasha Lardera


Honoring the garlic of Voghiera (DOP)

July 28, 2010


The experts tell us that what makes it unique is the combination of large, compact, white cloves, a unique, pungent flavor, and a long life span: Voghiera’s garlic isn’t only Italy’s most beloved garlic, but the true elixir for a long life (the heath benefits of garlic in the treatment of colds, cancer, heart disease, hypertension, infection and even impotence are more than often praised) that is about to be celebrated for three days in a special festival in the Castle of Belriguardo (in the province of Ferrara.) From August 6th to the 8th, this special bulb, the only one that earned (in 2007) DOP recognition, returns for the 13th time to flavor and “bless” every type of dish, so that garlic-laced foods will be available for sampling.

At the festival, in addition to sampling, people can participate in culinary competitions, a beauty pageant (“Miss Garlic” will be elected for the first time this year) and a poetry challenge. This is the opportunity for the Grande Mercato dei Sapori, a large local produce market, to introduce the public not only to this special garlic but to other products found in the area.

The garlic produced in Voghiera counts for less than 1% of the national production, but quality counts more than quantity; its unique characteristics derive from the terrain and environment where it is produced, with its silty-clay soils, near the Po’s Delta. It is cultivated in Voghiera, Masi Torello, Portomaggiore, Argenta and Ferrara according to specific rules and then it is certified by an external inspection entity, which is recognized as qualified by the Emilia Romagna region.

Garlic is an important ingredient in Italian cuisine but it is not used in everything (many still believe it is) as its distinctive taste can sometimes detract from that of other more shy ingredients. It is used in some sauces, stews, soups, salad dressings, pasta sauces, casseroles, breads, grains, and croutons. An important rule: when sautéing, avoid overcooking because as the garlic browns it begins to exude a bitter aroma that will be a portent of its contribution to the final flavour of the dish.

- Natasha Lardera


Icardi, A Biodynamic Producer From Piedmont

May 28, 2010

Altacucina held a lovely wine tasting on Monday, May 24 showcasing Italian organic and biodynamic wines. By chance I met Claudio Icardi a few days after the event. We discussed the wines at length and how he came to biodynamics as a philosophy and what it has done for his wines.

A word about biodynamic viticulture first. The field was started by Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) whose philosophy eventually evolved into the biodynamic movement. It aims to take into account the entire ecosystem around a plant or a person. Practically what this means is that the vineyards are planted according to certain phases of the moon and other practices while pest management techniques are all natural without using chemicals or pesticides.

Claudio Icardi said that initially he thought it was all a bunch of silly ideas but that after practicing biodynamic viticulture and winemaking for a period of time, he became so convinced of its merits that he now promotes it throughout Italy and teaches at various universities. He also told me for the first five years he threw out the wine because it wasn’t up to the standard that he wanted. “I wanted to make a great wine not just an okay one. My model was Romanee Conti,” he added.

He likened traditional interventions in the vineyard as giving a medication to someone who was sick that took care of the immediate cause but not the underlying effect. That is the difference between the holistic approach and the traditional approach.

The end result of this all are wonderful wines made from traditional Piedmont grape varieties such as Barbara, Nebbiolo, Cortese, Moscato d’Asti and a few international varieties. The wines are imported by Vinifera.

-Susannah Gold

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Genuinely Italian Lecture Series At NYU’s Casa Italiana Zerilli-Marimo’

April 27, 2010

Food is a topic that is on everyone’s mind and these days what is genuine Italian is a hot topic. This evening, three owners of Italian Specialty shops in New York city will share their secrets and talk about smart shopping. The lecture is part of a series of six educational lectures organized by Casa Italiana Zerilli-Marimo’ and the Gruppo Ristoratori Italiani.

The panel includes Lou DiPalo of Dipalo’s Fine Foods whose family originally hails from Basilicata. DiPalo’s family opened its first shop in 1910. Today’s store is much larger than any of its previous incarnations and Lou’s son has opened his own wine shop next door.

The second guest at the lecture will be Louis Coluccio Jr of DColuccio & Sons in Brooklyn. Louis Jr. is very entertaining and passionate about food, especially those that his family has been importing for decades.

The third speak is Antonio Magliulo of Buonitalia in the Chelsea Market. Buonitalia is very well known in New York restaurant circles and many order directly from his wholesale business. There is also a lovely cafe’ within the premises and many consider it to have some of the best espresso in New York. All told, the evening should be exciting with tidbits and new information. I’m looking forward to going.

-Susannah Gold

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Luca Maroni’s SensofWine NYC Event At Cipriani 42nd Street On February 4

January 19, 2010

Luca Maroni’s SensofWine NYC will be held at Cipriani 42nd Street for the second year in a row this February 4. Maroni, a noted Italian wine expert, will showcase 100 wines from over 40 producers. Last year’s event was a huge success with more than 1200 attending.

The walk around tasting is divided into a special two hour session reserved for members of the wine trade and restaurant industry and the press which runs from 3:00pm to 5:00 pm. Consumers and the trade/press can all attend from 5:00pm to 9:00pm. The cost of the event for consumers is $35. Alta Cucina members pay $30. In order to sign up for the event, please go to Alta Cucina’s store to buy tickets.

Maroni has created his own tasting method which evaluates different sensory elements. He gives each wine a numerical vote and publishes a wine guide with his ratings on an annual basis. Maroni hosts a huge SensofWine event in Rome every November, often attended by 30,000 people.

Don’t miss out on this event if you are in town on February 4. Last year was a fabulous evening and this year will surely be one as well.

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La Strada del Vino San Colombano e Dei Sapori Lodigiani in Lombardy Makes A Great Sidetrip

November 5, 2009

Living in Italy or visiting Italy for extending periods of time enables one to attend many local festivals. Invariably, these festivals offer local dishes which are generally seasonal. Many assume this is only the case in regions such as Tuscany, Piedmont or Le Marche. Instead, it is just part of the Italian way of life and takes place all over the country, every weekend.

One great fall festival happens about 40 kilometers outside of Milan in a town called Lodi is the Rassegna Gastronomica Lodigiana.

Numerous local restaurants offer menus complete with Grana Lodigiano or a local cheese also known as ‘raspadura’ which can be eaten as an aperitif with a fresh white Verdea di San Colombano wine and the ‘fritada rugnusa’ or risotto with cream or sausages. The area is also known for the Torta di Lodi which is a dessert said to come from the Middle ages. It is made with almonds and is delicious.

The month long festival includes bike rides and the ability to visit cultural institutions and churches that are seldom open to the public.

The Strada del Vino is a 120 kilometer road passes through small cities and vineyards with numerous hotels and restaurants to take a rest or have a break, The area is very well known for its ceramics as well, goldsmiths and iron works.

San Colombano has a number of red and white wines. San Colombano DOC is made largely rom red grapes only: Croatina, Barbera and Uva Rara. Verdea is an IGT wine, an indigenous variety which does very well in this area and is classified as an IGT.

If a visit to Milan permits it, taking a side trip to one of the restaurants in Lodi could be a lovely Sunday excursion.

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Italian Sounding…Italian Authorities Make Big Push To Protect Italian Products

October 23, 2009

Italian officials presented a united front at a press conference at Del Posto yesterday which was moderated by Lidia Bastianich. The topic was the need to protect Italian products from “Italian sounding” products. Lidia, the famous chef, restauranteur, cookbook author and TV host, noted that 30 years ago she couldn’t get the products she wanted in the United States.While this is no longer a problem, the new issue is that there are numerous imitations of Italian foods.

For those who don’t know Italian products, it is very easy to get confused. They may end up buying a product that looks, feels and seems Italian but in fact, is not at all.

Luca Zaia, the Minister of Agriculture gave a forceful speech in which he outlined the perils for Italy from counterfeit products. He spoke of food safety and food traceability as well as the government’s efforts to protect designated products such as Parmigiano Reggiano or Radicchio di Treviso.

The Minister was joined by Walter Brunello, Chairman of Buonitalia which promotes Italian agricultural food stuffs and wines in the global marketplace, Aniello Musella, the Italian Trade Commissioner (ICE) & Executive Director. ICE is the government agency tasked with promoting business opportunities for Italian companies in foreign markets. Giovanni Mantovani, CEO of Veronafiere where Vinitaly is held was also present. Vinitaly is the largest wine event in the world. It is held each April and showcases principally Italian wines.

Francesco Maria Talo’, the Consul General of Italy started off the conference noting that “Chi mangia sano, mangia Italiano.” This push to promote the Italian diet as a healthy one is not new but the damage that Italian sounding products are creating for Italians has obviously moved to another level.

According to Minister Zaia, out of 10 Italian sounding products, nine have nothing to do with Italy. He noted that this is creating economic damage to Italy on the order of 200 billion Euro.

Italy boasts 4500 typical products (DOP,etc) as well as 500 DOC and DOCG wines. Zaia noted that the place to fight these battles is in international organizations. He spoke a lot about the WTO trade rounds and Italy’s push to protect its products. He also asked consumers to be local ambassadors.

When asked how one can tell what an Italian product is, he said that people need to pay more attention to labels and declarations of origin of the products as well as trademarks.

All of the organizations present are looking to promote Italian products through education and through the huge network of Italian restaurants in the United States. These restaurants are the front lines in the battle to use authentic Italian products. While much work needs to be done, a united front by so many organizations is a great start.

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Italian Wines For July 4 Holiday

July 2, 2009

Italy offers a wide variety of wines that will work well with holiday fare for the July 4 celebrations. Many people will be out grilling and instead of serving a big Zinfandel, why not try a Primitivo di Manduria from Apulia. Many think that the grapes are related but recent research shows that the parent grape for Primitivo is actually a Croatian grape and that the two are not at all related. What they do have in common is that they can be big, juicy wines with a peppery note that can offset barbecued meats. If Primitivo is not your cup of tea, try an Aglianico from Campania or an Aglianico del Vulture from Basilicata, another region in the South of Italy. Also, a robust and full bodied wine, it is a bit softer on the palate with more fruit and fewer meaty flavors than Primitivo. If you aren’t serving meat but pasta dishes and lighter foods, any Sangiovese based wine will work very well. Red wines from Tuscany are mostly based on different clones of Sangiovese. Some are blended with international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Sangiovese is a fruity wine with high acidity. The acidity is what makes this such a food friendly wine. Acidity cuts through some of the heavier flavors and spices in food. Whatever you are serving, you can find an Italian wine to match. Check out these recipes for your holiday party.

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Italian Products Dominate Fancy Food Show

June 30, 2009

As usual, Italian food products were the talk of the town at the Fancy Food Show. In addition to the 350 Italian companies showcasing their wares, companies from almost every other country also featured products which could be mistaken for Italian products by the uninformed consumer. Brazil offered a Panettone, a traditional Italian dessert generally eaten around the Christmas holidays. The logo of the Brazilian brand was so similar to the very famous Le Tre Marie brand that unless one looked closely they might have thought the brands were identical.

Panettone

Chile, Argentina, Canada, the United States and almost every other nation, offered tomato products, oils, pastas, coffee and the like. While one could be flattered that the world has so wholeheartedly embraced the culture, it can also be an economic disadvantage to Italian manufacturers and artisans if products are sold that do not make it clear that they are not from Italy. The products offered at the Fancy Food show are clearly from different countries but in an average food shop, how does a consumer know the difference? Should there be national flags attached to products? How would that work? Ingredients come from all over the world so it would be difficult to identify what is and is not entirely from one country. However, perhaps a better system of traceability will be a future help to nations trying to export their own goods.

In a recent interview with I-Italy, Aniello Musella, Director of the Italian Trade Commission in North America, discussed the economic impact of “non-authentic” Italian products on Italian exports.

Food for thought….

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Fancy Food Show June 28 – 30: 350 Italian Companies Showcase Their Products

June 25, 2009

New York’s Fancy Food Show is on hand and many will make a pilgrimage to the Jacob Javits Center this weekend to see new products, old friends and get a feel for the market.

Oddly enough, Anna Dente, Chef at Osteria San Cesario, who we mentioned last week as part of our piece on Roman cooking in New York will be here soon than expected. She will be promoting a series of dishes on Sunday, June 28th, at the NASFT Summer Fancy Food Show at the Lotito Foods Booth #2745 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at New York City’s Javits Center.

While Anna is truly fascinating, there will be numerous other booths that attract attention this year, many with products from Italy. In fact, the Italian pavilion is the largest of any NASFT Fancy Food show, some 350 companies are exhibiting. The region of Calabria, also mentioned on this blog, is present with a variety of foods at the show as well.

The Italian Trade Commission is heavily involved in promoting Italian foods at the show and has also organized two seminars about Italian Food.

The two seminars are as follows:

IL MADE IN ITALY A TAVOLA: INGREDIENTI SALUTARI, QUALITA’ DEL CIBO E TUTELA GIURIDICA DEI PRODOTTI TIPICI NEGLI USA” (Made in Italy: healthy ingredients, quality of food, and juridical protection of Italian traditional products in the US)

WHEN: June 28, 4:30- 6pm
WHERE: Jacob Javits Convention Center, New York, Room 1E03
ABOUT: The seminar is divided into two sessions: in the first one Dr. Katherine McManus – Director of Nutrition Dept., Brigham Hospital, Boston – will talk about the healthy aspects of Mediterranean diet and Italian organic products; the second one is dedicated to Italian importers in the US. Members of Orrick, Herrington & Sutcliffe, LLP Law Office will talk about the juridical protection of Italian food products in the US .

WHY IS ITALIAN FOOD THE BEST DURING ECONOMIC HARD TIMES?”

WHEN: June 29, 4:30pm
WHERE: Jacob Javits Convention Center, New York, Room 2D08
ABOUT: The seminar is presented by Fred Plotkin, author of the best seller “Italy for the Gourmet Traveler”. The renowned Italian culinary expert writes for the New York Times, and for the trade journals “Gourmet” and “Bon Appetit”.

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