Vegetables « Radicchioblog

Sicilian flavors: Caponata at Cacio e Vino

August 31, 2010

Several Italian news and travel web sites (www.siciliaonline.it and www.myluxury.com to name a couple) are reporting that Sicily has defeated Sardinia as the favorite summer destination of local and, mostly, international stars. Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, Elton John, Giorgio Armani, Sting and many more prefer the still uncompromising beauty of this island to the pretentiousness of a natural paradise that has been turned into a sort of circus by the wannabes. A round trip ticked to Palermo, this time of the year, starts at $523 on Meridiana (available only until mid September) but if you are like me, meaning you don’t have much time off so going all the way to Italy is practically impossible, you’d be happy to know that Sicily can be “tasted” in the East Village. At Cacio & Vino to be exact.

The menu is a never ending (but in a good way) and features some of the most traditional and flavorful Sicilian dishes (including Sarde a beccafico con cipollata,
baked Mediterranean sardines stuffed with bread crumbs, pine nuts, raisins, orange zest, sweet and sour onions; Involtini di melanzane, stuffed rolls of eggplant with pine nuts, raisins, basil, pecorino cheese, tomato sauce; Spaghetti con pesto trapanese, homemade spaghetti, fresh tomato, basil, garlic and almond pesto; Gnocchi di fico e primosale, potato and fig gnocchi in a Sicilian cheese fondue sauce and Pesce spada all’agrodolce,
pan-seared swordfish in sweet and sour sauce with olives and onions and vegetable ratatouille.
Every time I go I am undecided on what to order as everything looks, and tastes so good, but one thing I know for sure is that I will order Caponata (as a cold appetizer). At Cacio e Vino caponata consists of Sicilian style sweet and sour eggplant, celery, olives, onions, served with chick pea fritters and goat cheese. Bursting with color and flavor, it is blend of eggplants and tomatoes, balanced with green olives, capers, celery, sugar and vinegar for its characteristic sweet and sour taste. Caponata can be served cold or at room temperature and it should be prepared a day in advance so the flavors will have time to blend and settle. It can be served with pasta, rice, or omelets but the more traditional way is to serve it as an appetizer with crackers or accompanied by fresh crusty Italian bread or, in the case of Cacio e Vino, with freshly baked pizza dough cut into small slices.
Enjoying it with a glass of wine while waiting for the next dish to arrive is absolute bliss.

- Natasha Lardera

1 Comment | Dining, Restaurants, Sicily, Vegetables | Tagged: Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Sicily | Permalink
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Honoring the garlic of Voghiera (DOP)

July 28, 2010

The experts tell us that what makes it unique is the combination of large, compact, white cloves, a unique, pungent flavor, and a long life span: Voghiera’s garlic isn’t only Italy’s most beloved garlic, but the true elixir for a long life (the heath benefits of garlic in the treatment of colds, cancer, heart disease, hypertension, infection and even impotence are more than often praised) that is about to be celebrated for three days in a special festival in the Castle of Belriguardo (in the province of Ferrara.) From August 6th to the 8th, this special bulb, the only one that earned (in 2007) DOP recognition, returns for the 13th time to flavor and “bless” every type of dish, so that garlic-laced foods will be available for sampling.

At the festival, in addition to sampling, people can participate in culinary competitions, a beauty pageant (“Miss Garlic” will be elected for the first time this year) and a poetry challenge. This is the opportunity for the Grande Mercato dei Sapori, a large local produce market, to introduce the public not only to this special garlic but to other products found in the area.

The garlic produced in Voghiera counts for less than 1% of the national production, but quality counts more than quantity; its unique characteristics derive from the terrain and environment where it is produced, with its silty-clay soils, near the Po’s Delta. It is cultivated in Voghiera, Masi Torello, Portomaggiore, Argenta and Ferrara according to specific rules and then it is certified by an external inspection entity, which is recognized as qualified by the Emilia Romagna region.

Garlic is an important ingredient in Italian cuisine but it is not used in everything (many still believe it is) as its distinctive taste can sometimes detract from that of other more shy ingredients. It is used in some sauces, stews, soups, salad dressings, pasta sauces, casseroles, breads, grains, and croutons. An important rule: when sautéing, avoid overcooking because as the garlic browns it begins to exude a bitter aroma that will be a portent of its contribution to the final flavour of the dish.

- Natasha Lardera

2 Comments | Emilia Romagna, Events, Ingredients, Travelling, Vegetables | Tagged: Emilia Romagna, Italian cuisine, Italian Regions | Permalink
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Grow your own dinner

July 26, 2010

Tomatoes, carrots, and lettuce. But even zucchini, eggplant, asparagus and artichokes. These are the new ingredients of a stress-fighting diet, as long as each type of vegetable is cared for from seeding to harvesting. At the breathtaking Antica Corte Pallavicina Relais in Polesine Parmense (PR) chef Massimo Spigaroli unveils all the misteries of a great vegetable garden. It is a process that starts from the preparation of the earth, to the seeding of the products to finally end with the pleasure of harvesting and with practical lessons on how to cook and preserve these beloved vegetables. Growing your own veggies is a trend that was started by the Obamas that goes in an organic and eco-friendly direction. It is definitely “green”, fun and healthy because it brings to our plates fresh and seasonal products while helping the environment. No need for a large piece of land, just a tiny rectangle of earth in the backyard or a large tub placed on the rooftop (terrace for the lucky ones) can bring nature closer to us. Each class held at L’Antica Corte is 3 hours long. Chef Spigaroli goes over each step, from preparation of the earth to the preparation of the dish and, at the end, each participant receives a box of freshly harvested vegetables. The remaining classes for this year are: August 2, September 6, October 1 and November 1.

- Natasha Lardera

2 Comments | Cooking, Emilia Romagna, Travelling, Vegetables | Tagged: Emilia Romagna, Italian Chefs, Italian cuisine, Italian Regions, Vegetables | Permalink
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Italian Jewish Cooking- Carciofi alla Giudia

May 20, 2010

There are few foods as closely associated with Italian Jewish cooking as Carciofi alla Giudia or fried artichokes. This delicious dish can be found in any number of Roman restaurants but it is traditionally associated with the Roman Ghetto. Artichokes can be quite tough when cooking normal but this particular way of making them allows the heart, stems and inner leaves to be quite tender.

One Roman restaurant where Carciofi alla Giudia is always on the menu is La Taverna Del Ghetto near the Portico d’Ottavia in Rome. This restaurant, which is also kosher, is a hit with tourists of all religions and ages as it sits on a picturesque street in the old Roman ghetto behind the Synagogue and not far from the Tiber river.

Carciofi alla Giudia can be served as an antipasto or as a side dish. The hardest thing to do is to limit the number that one consumes. Artichokes are in season in the Spring, Summer and Fall. This great blog post from City Cooks gives clear instructions on how to clean and cook them in any fashion.
-Susannah Gold

5 Comments | Cooking, Vegetables | Tagged: artichokes, carciofi alla giudia, City Cooks, Fried artichokes, Italian Jewish Cooking, italian vegetables, La Taverna del Ghetto, Portico d'Ottavia, Roman Ghetto, Seasonal Vegetables | Permalink
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Italian Asparagus From Piacenza – Una Sana Tentazione

April 29, 2010

Italy is renowned for its wealth of fruits and vegetables. One such vegetable is Asparagus. The Consorzio Asparago Piacentino has been actively promoting the healthy attributes of this elegant vegetable with the tagline – a Sana Tentazione or a healthy craving.

According to materials from the Consortium, Asparagus are famous for its characteristic as an antidepressant, as an antioxidant and for its high level of fiber. Additionally it has a variety of amino acids that can be considered a diurectic.

In promoting Italian products, consortium countrywide are now referring to the length of the chain between suppliers and consumers. The shorter the better is the idea. Additionally, food producers are once again promoting the idea of eating fruits and vegetables in season and the use of few chemicals.

This asparagus consortium is located in Northern Italy in the province of Lombardy but there are numerous consortium throughout the country. Piacenza is a town that most people associate with salami and other charcuterie products as well as the delicious but not dietic gnoccho fritto.

Whether eating gnoccho fritto with charcuterie or tasting the delicious asparagus from these parts, this lower part of Lombardy has some interesting food and wine traditions.

-Susannah Gold

Leave a Comment » | Cooking, Fruits, Italian Regions, Lombardy, Vegetables | Tagged: charcuterie, consorzio asparago piacentino, Gnoccho fritto recipe, gnocco fritto, Italian fruits and vegetables, italian vegetables, Lombardy, piacenza, salumi | Permalink
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A Ligurian Treat: Trofie al Pesto

August 27, 2009

All 20 of Italy’s regions have specific culinary traditions but most have at least one or two signature dishes that are on almost every menu in the region. One of the most ubiquitous and the most delicious of Ligurian treats is their homemade squiggly pasta called trofie which are generally served with pesto. Pesto can be made in a number of ways. The basic pesto ingredients are basil, garlic, pinoli nuts, cheese and oil. In Liguria, many cooks add green beans and potatoes to the dish. You can either purchase pesto or make it at home.

The pasta is a bit more laborious but here is a great recipe from a blog by Helen Rennie. Buying trofie in New York can present somewhat of a challenge but fresh pasta producers such as Raffetto’s in the West Village or Borgattis on Arthur Avenue would be a good place to begin your search.

If all of this seems too much, you can hop over to Scuderia on 6th Avenue and order this lovely dish. A great wine to drink while eating pesto is the local Vermentino, a white wine which is made in Liguria, in parts of Tuscany and in Sardinia. The best Vermentino from Liguria come from an area called Colli di Luni. This summer dish is light and is always a crowd pleaser at dinner parties as well.

Often overlooked by tourists who opt to vacation in Tuscany, Liguria has much to offer. Renowned for its small picturesque villages perched on hills overlooking the Mediterranean, it is also a wonderful place to hike as well as scuba dive or sail. Many northern Italians tend to spend their weekends here and part of the summer. Liguria can also be a great place to vacation with young children as the sea is relatively shallow and calm close to the shoreline. On your next visit, keep Liguria in mind for a holiday jaunt. You won’t be disappointed.

Leave a Comment » | Cooking, Dining, Fresh Pasta, Ingredients, Italian Regions, Liguria, Restaurants, Travelling, Vegetables, Wining | Tagged: Liguria, Pesto, Trofie al pesto | Permalink
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Radicchio – A Delicate DOP from the Veneto

June 4, 2009

Radicchio, a familiar vegetable, hails from the Veneto region. While there are a number of different kinds of radicchio, the most prestigious are two that have garnered Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) status, Radicchio Rosso di Treviso and Radicchio Variegato di Castelfranco. Radicchio Rosso di Chioggia is also prized while Radicchio Rosso di Verona somewhat less so. Radicchio from Treviso is the most prestigious of all and is also the most flavorful. There are two main types of this sexy lettuce, one is called precoce and the other is tardiva. The first is harvested early and the second is harvested later, as one might imagine. Just like with wine, radicchio that has a longer “hang time” on the vine has more flavor. Radicchios from Treviso and from Castelfranco have their own trade organization, the Consorzio Tutela Radicchio Rosso di Treviso e Variegato di Castelfranco. Radicchio is a delicate vegetable and quite versatile. It changes its taste depending on how you cook it. It can be bitter when eaten raw and it can have a spicy, zesty quality to it as well. It mellows with cooking and develops sweet notes. Oddly enough, Radicchio is a member of the Chicory family and is related to the Belgian endive.

Wine pairing with radicchio can be somewhat difficult because of its bitter notes. Generally speaking, raw vegetables are hard to pair with wine while cooked vegetables fare marginally better. Often the pairing is done using the sauce that accompanies a vegetable as the guide. With cooked radicchio, for example, one might choose a white wine from the Alto Adige. Two wines by H. Lun, a producer in the Sud Tyrol come to mind, their Muller Thurgau and Riesling. H. Lun was founded in 1840 and is the oldest winery in the Sud Tyrol/Alto Adige. These wines have just enough residual sugar to offset the bitterness in the cooked radicchio without overwhelming it

Altacucina has listed a few recipes on its website which use radicchio. Here are two nice ones for summer, Red Mullet Carpaccio with Artichoke and Pink Grapefruit Salad and Flowers of Bresaola with Casatella on a bed of radicchio rosso.

Radicchio is a subtle, refined and elegant vegetable, killing it with a heavy sauce or a big bold wine while not criminal is almost blasphemy.

Leave a Comment » | Cooking, Vegetables, Wining | Tagged: Altacucina, Consorzio Tutela Radicchio Rosso di Treviso e Variegato di Castelfranco, H.LUN, Italian DOP Products, Radicchio, Radicchio Rosso di Chioggia, Radicchio Rosso di Treviso, Radicchio Rosso di Verona, Radicchio Variegato di Castelfranco, Riesling | Permalink
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