Italian Capers From Pantelleria, What Makes Them So Special?

February 19, 2010

Capers are small green fruits that grow on bushes in the Mediterranean. They are particularly prevalent in Italian cooking in the South and can be used as a condiment or for seasoning. They are quite salty in general and the version from Pantelleria, an island off the coast of Sicily, are particularly salty. Capers tend to grow on rocky coasts.

Capers or Capperi. as they are called in Italian, have a very flavorful aroma. The ones from Pantelleria are a designated product, or an IGP which means Indicazione Geografica Protetta. This special designation is given to products from Italy that are characteristic of the location where they grow. The Capperi from Pantelleria must be conserved under sea salt. Before using them, the salt is usually washed off.

Capers are used in a host of Italian specialities from Neapolitan and Sicilian Pizza to puttanesca sauce and even alone with a bit of oil on pasta. Italy is a nation of “navigatori e marinai” or sailors and every sailboat crew knows to bring capers along for an emergency meal with pasta. Capers are also used with fish and on Pantelleria, they are fried in a dish with potatoes, put into salads and made into a special pasta sauce.

Capers are said to have good nutritional value. They are very low in Cholesterol and are a good source of protein, vitamin A, vitamin E, Niacin, Calcium and Manganese, and a very good source of fiber, vitamin C, vitamin K, Riboflavin, Folate, Iron, Magnesium and Copper. However, they are high in sodium. That said, they are also known to be an aphrodisiac.

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Bergamotto from Reggio Calabria, A DOP Product With Many Uses

February 11, 2010

Bergamotto or Bergamot is a Citrus fruit which is grown in 45 towns in the Province of Reggio Calabria in Calabria. This interesting pear-shaped fruit with a somewhat rough skin is designated a denominazione d’origine protetta product or DOP. Essential oils extracted from this fruit are used in the perfume industry.
The tree is called the Citrus aurantium var. bergamia (also known as C. bergamia), of the Rutaceae family and is also known as the Bergamot orange.

A Bergamot is quite different from an orange or a lemon or other citrus fruits and only grows in this area of Calabria on the coastline. There is a consortium to promote and protect the fruit.

Bergamot oil is used not only in perfumes but also in cooking. It is added to traditional dishes in order to lighten the flavor. Bergamot oil can be used to contrast sweet notes in food such as crustaceans but it can also be used to offset strong flavors in game meats. One of the many uses of Bergamot oil is in sorbet or sorbetto.

Bergamot oil contains hundreds of cemical components and is also used to make cosmetics and soaps. The oils also have antibacterial properties and the product is often used in the pharmaceutical industry as well.
Last but not least, the oil from this versatile fruit is also used in after dinner liquors and in teas and infusions.

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Is Mozzarella Really Made from Buffalo Milk? Yes if it is a DOP From Campania

February 2, 2010

Is Mozzarella really made from buffalo milk? Sometimes it is, in fact. Mozzarella di Bufala along with Pasta is the queen of the Campania region. It is usually white and solid but can have different consistency as well.

Mozzarella di Bufala is one of Italy’s protected products with a DOP or Denominazione d’origine protetta designations. Buffalo came to Campania at the beginning of the Middle Ages as beasts of burden. Their traditional home is in the marshy area between Caserta and Salerno. Some say that the home of Mozzarella is the town of Aversa in Campania.

Mozzarella can be served as at the beginning of the meal as an antipasto, as a main course, a second course, as a snack, a side and even a dessert. The name Mozzarella comes from the action that the dairy farmer does, they cut off a piece of the cheese or mozzare with thumb and the index finger.

It is hard work and is generally taught from one generation to the next. Each mozzarella is to have the same weight just by eyeballing the amount cut off. This is done wholly without using scales and is a source of pride for the dairy farmers. Mozzarella can be served as an oval ball or in a braided version.

The right mozzarella is a key ingredient in making the perfect pizza. This is one of the reasons why the pizza from Campania is considered to be the best Italian pizza. Mozzarella di Bufala has made a splash all over the world and can be bought in many different countries.

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Italian Olive Oil – A World To Discover

January 12, 2010

Italy, like most countries in the Mediterranean basin, is renowned for its olive oils. Olive oil came to the Mediterranean through what was known as Asia Minor or the modern day country of Turkey. The three main producers of olive oil are Spain, Italy and Greece. Greece has more varieties than any other country in the world. Italy also has numerous cultivars, the word for different types of olives.

Olive oil has many nutritional benefits including the fact that the mono-saturated fats present in olives/olive oil, when combined with the antioxidant protection offered by vitamin E, lower the risk of damage and inflammation. Olive/olive oil contains active phytonutrient compounds, including polyphenols and flavonoids, which have been found to have significant anti-inflammatory properties. Moreover, the vitamin E present in olives/olive oil has been known to offer cellular protection against free radicals present in the body and prevents the oxidation of cholesterol in the body and thus helps reduce the risk of having heart attack or stroke.

Olive oil has been slowly making its way into the United States market. At any local grocer, you can now find olive oil. Some of these oils are Italian, many are Spanish and many are a mixture. Those in the know can immediately tell the difference. One factor to look for, in addition to taste, is the color of the olive oil. Most good oils are quite green when they are first sold into the market. As they get older they become a bit more yellow.

Each cultivar produces different aromas and flavors when it is made into olive oil. Some oils are spicier than others while some are more delicate. There are also regional traditions in olive oil. For example, in Calabria, most olive oil is made from an indigenous cultivar called Carolea. Carolea can grow in Sicily as well but it is in Calabria that it finds its true home. For more information on olive oil from Calabraia, check out the website of Calabriadorata.

What matters most when choosing an olive oil are the flavors and the stability of the oil. Oils are judged and labelled with their level of acidity as well. In all, the world of olive oil is almost as complex as that of wine, tea or chocolate tastings. In fact, there are many classes and certifications to become an olive oil taster. At the huge Italian wine fair held in April every year, Vinitaly, there is always one entire building for the SOL event which is dedicated to olive oil. Visiting the fairs can be quite overwhelming but is without a doubt, an exquisitely pleasurable experience.

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Italian Olive Oil Offers Many Choices For Consumers

December 4, 2009

Italian olive oil is quite well known in the United States and has been for a long time. What is new however are the number of olive oils available and the differences among them. Numerous Italian regions produce olive oil and most of them are trying to get into the US marketplace. Among the most important are Tuscany, Umbria, Apulia, Sicilia, Calabria and Liguria. There are also areas in some of the other 20 regions that produce olive oil such as Lago di Garda in Lombardy/Veneto.

The olive was originally planted in the South Caucasus and spread from there to Rhodes, Cyprus and Crete and then to the entire Mediterranean basin. Olive cultivation in Apulia, for example, dates back to 800 a.c. when Greek settlers migrated to the region during the era called Magna Grecia. Some 40% of Italian olive oil actually comes from Apulia.

One of the characteristics of olive oil from Apulia is that it is quite full bodied, more so, for example, than oils from Liguria, Lake Garda or Tuscany. It has rich aromas and flavors and considerable nutritional characteristics including a high level of vitamin E and other substances which protect against degenerative diseases and aging.

Just like with wine grapes, there are many different types of olives, each producing oil with various characteristics. In Apulia, some of the varieties include:

Coratina which produces an olive oil that is fruity and slightly spicy.

Ogliarola which produces an oil that is almost sweet and has an aroma of almonds.

Ogliarola Garganica and Parenzana which make fruity and quite well balanced oil.

Cellina and Saracena which produce oil that can be almost salty.

Olive oil can also be used for numerous purposes in the kitchen and out. In the kitchen, some of the lighter oils such as those made from coratina work very well with salads. Other that are slightly heavier and are a bit spicy enhance grilled meats and vegetables. Still others work for frying foods.

The final product depends largely on the quality of the olive and how it is cared for during harvest and pressing. Following the harvest which should be done by hand as much as possible, olives are washed before being sorted and eventually pressed. Olives must be pressed within 24 hours after they are gathered.

Apulia has a number of products which have the special Denominazione d’orgine protetta (DOP) label including Olio Extravergine di oliva Collina di Brindisi DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Dauna DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Terra d’Otranto DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Terra di Bari DOP, and Olio Extravergine di oliva Terre Tarantine DOP.

While Apulia is only one of many regions in Italy that produces olive oil, it gives you an idea of how many oils there are and how each one has different characteristics depending on the terroir where they are grown, the cultivar and the climate conditions in that area. Check out the oils at Alta Cucina’s store.

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A Ligurian Treat: Trofie al Pesto

August 27, 2009

All 20 of Italy’s regions have specific culinary traditions but most have at least one or two signature dishes that are on almost every menu in the region. One of the most ubiquitous and the most delicious of Ligurian treats is their homemade squiggly pasta called trofie which are generally served with pesto. Pesto can be made in a number of ways. The basic pesto ingredients are basil, garlic, pinoli nuts, cheese and oil. In Liguria, many cooks add green beans and potatoes to the dish. You can either purchase pesto or make it at home.

The pasta is a bit more laborious but here is a great recipe from a blog by Helen Rennie. Buying trofie in New York can present somewhat of a challenge but fresh pasta producers such as Raffetto’s in the West Village or Borgattis on Arthur Avenue would be a good place to begin your search.

If all of this seems too much, you can hop over to Scuderia on 6th Avenue and order this lovely dish. A great wine to drink while eating pesto is the local Vermentino, a white wine which is made in Liguria, in parts of Tuscany and in Sardinia. The best Vermentino from Liguria come from an area called Colli di Luni. This summer dish is light and is always a crowd pleaser at dinner parties as well.

Often overlooked by tourists who opt to vacation in Tuscany, Liguria has much to offer. Renowned for its small picturesque villages perched on hills overlooking the Mediterranean, it is also a wonderful place to hike as well as scuba dive or sail. Many northern Italians tend to spend their weekends here and part of the summer. Liguria can also be a great place to vacation with young children as the sea is relatively shallow and calm close to the shoreline. On your next visit, keep Liguria in mind for a holiday jaunt. You won’t be disappointed.

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How Does Italian Salt Compare to Other Salts? Favorably it Seems

August 4, 2009

Italian sea salts are all the rage it seems. Where you could once only find French salt or Kosher salts, Italian sea salt has claimed a place at the table and it’s about time.

Italians have been producing salt since the 1100s just outside of the town of Trapani in Sicily. Sea salt, an ancient product, can be a huge asset in the kitchen because of its potential to emphasize flavors. At one time, salt was used as currency.

There are essentially three types of salt: sea salt, rock salt and that which comes from underground mines or spring water salts. The most prestigious salts are generally the sea salts because they are the most pure and retain many of their nutrients.

Trapani is the home of the Italian salt trade today. The marine salts are made through the evaporation process whereby ocean water goes into large ponds. The salt then evaporates leaving behind the salt crystals without sacrificing the minerals that salt contains and which are fundamental for our bodies.

The evaporation and the drying of the crystals is possible because of the heavy winds blowing in this part of Sicily. These minerals include Iodine, Fluorine, Magnesium and Potassium. Sicilian salt is also very low in sodium.

Idoine in the salt is said to be good for those with Thyroid problems, for example. Apparently salt is also a hedge against some mental defects.

In other marine salts, these minerals are sometimes missing and fine table salt has none of these helpful health benefits. Marine salts and fine salt usually undergo a specific process in order to separate out the chalk in the salt. This does not happen in Italian salt.

The salt works run from Trapani to Marsala on the Eastern coast of Sicily. One very well known salt works, Sosalt, was founded in 1922. The area is quite beautiful to behold and in 1991, it was declared a natural reserve.

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