Lenticchia di Castelluccio di Norcia IGP – A Must For New Year’s

December 29, 2009

As many people know, eating lentils on New Year’s Eve is supposed to bring good luck during the year. While any lentils will do, the most famous lentils in Italy are those made in certain areas of the provinces of Umbria and Le Marche in Central Italy known as Lenticchia di Castelluccio di Norcia IGP. Lentils have been recognized with the IGP designation. IGP stands for Indicazione Geografica Protetta.

These lentils are made wholly within the National Park called Monte Sibillini which encompasses parts of the provinces of Fermo, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno in Le Marche and Perugia in Umbria. These lentils can be preserved for a considerable amount of time if conserved correctly in fresh and dry areas. Lentils are not only good luck but are also a very good source of protein.

These lentils have a delicate flavor and have a thin skin. They can therefore be cooked much more easily than many other legumes which need to soak in water for a time before they can be cooked. Lentils are usually harvested during the summer months after a seven to eight month growing season.

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Celebrate Christmas Eve With Italian Sparkling Wine

December 24, 2009

As Christmas Eve rolls around, maybe you don’t know what to bring to dinner, a party, an after party. Consider Italian sparkling wine, of both red and white varieties. Italy offers numerous choices such as well known Prosecco from the Veneto region to Franciacorta from Lombardy.There are numerous wines to choose from including great sparklers from the Trentino-Alto Adige. Consider Ferrari, a sparkling wine house for many decades. The truly interesting phenomenon is that many sparkling wines are now being made from all kinds of indigenous grapes, such as Asprinio (Campania), Ribolla Gialla (Friuli), Pecorino (Marche), and Grechetto (Lazio) to name a few. Many producers are making sparkling wines in order to complement their still wine portfolio. One must remember the sweeter wines as well be it Asti in its off-dry version made from the Moscato Bianco grape or red varieties such as Brachetto d’Acqui and Birbet, all three from Piedmont.

In addition to sparkling wines or spumante, there is also a category called frizzante which is a little fizzy such as a Lambrusco from Emilia Romagna or Sangue di Giuda from Lombardy. These are just a few ideas for that bottle to bring to your Christmas Eve or Christmas Day feast.

Whichever bottle you choose, drink it in good health. Merry Christmas. Buon Natale. Tanti Auguri da Radicchioblog.

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Vin Brule, A Great Remedy To Fight Cold Weather

December 22, 2009

Today is the the first full day of Winter and people around the world are affected by the cold front. Italian and American cities have been fighting the snow over the last few days. Vin Brule or cooked wine can help. Of course Vin Brule is better when drunk on top of a mountain after a great day of skiing but if that isn’t an option, you can still make it in your kitchen pretty easily.

All you need are the following ingredients:

1 bottle of full bodied red wine
2 cinnamon sticks
7 ounces of sugar
8 cloves
1 orange
1 lemon

Begin by peeling the skin of the lemon and the orange, there should be no white part left on the skins, put the skins in a pot which shouldn’t be a nonstick pan. Put the cloves and the cinnamon in, slowly adding a bit of wine and a bit of sugar, then the skins of the lemon and orange. Before you turn on the stove, mix the sugar up so that it dissolves a bit. Now bring your concoction to a boil for a few minutes, mixing as you go with a wooden spoon. Now you need to let the alcohol evaporate. Be quite careful while you light the surface. Wait a few minutes before serving. It is recommended that you filter Vin Brule. This is a lovely way to celebrate with guests at Christmas.

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Holiday Party with Italian Festive Sparkling Wines

December 18, 2009
Holiday Party with Italian Festive Sparkling Wines

Holiday Party with Italian Festive Sparkling Wines,
originally uploaded by AltaCucinaSociety.

Alta Cucina held its first holiday party in its new Epicurean center on December 9. 2009. It has been a great year for Alta Cucina with many new members joining the organization.

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Montasio From Friuli Venezia Giulia, A Semi-Firm Delicate Cheese

December 17, 2009

Montasio cheese comes from the North Eastern Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. The name comes from a mountain range in the Alps in this region. Montasio was first produced around 1700. The rules to make Montasio were codified by the cheese making school in San Vito al Tagliamento (Pordenone) in 1924. The cheese became a denominazione d’origine protetta (DOP) cheese in 1986. The European Union gave it a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status in 1996.

According to the rules for making Montasio, it can only come from the provinces of Friuli Venezia Giulia (Udine, Pordenone, Gorizia and Trieste) and in the bordering provinces of the Veneto (all of Trevisio and Belluno provinces, as well as parts of the provinces of Venice and Padua). To make Montasio, you must use fresh cow’s milk produced in one of these areas.

Montasio is a balanced cheese with about 32%-36% water, 32%-34% lipids and 24%-26% protein. It has three different degrees of aging, fresh, medium, and mature. There is also an Extra-Mature Montasio.

Fresh Montasio is aged just 60 to 120 days and has a mild, delicate taste. Medium is aged for 5 to 10 months and has a full bodied bolder taste. Mature Montasio is any cheese aged over 10 months which has a pleasant savory taste. Extra Mature Montasio which is much rarer is aged for over 18 months and is quite flavorful.

As Montasio ages, it becomes more granular and crumbles easier. It also tastes saltier and the rind becomes drier and darker.

Montasio can be used in many kinds of dishes from appetizers to desserts. It is also the main ingredient in one of Friuli’s main dishes – Frico.

Frico is fried cheese made into wafer thin layers which is supposed to stimulate the appetite as an amuse-bouche. It can also be made into a thicker entree using potatoes and onions.

Frico is pretty easy to make just grab some potatoes and begin boiling them with the skin on. Then cut up an onion and sautee it in a pan with some butter and olive oil. Next peel the potato, slice it and add it to the pan with the onion. Add salt and pepper and cook until potato is almost rady, add Montasio cheese and cook it until the cheese takes on a tasty golden crust. This dish is usually served with polenta or vegetables.

This easy dish can be paired with any of the great wines from Friuli. It would go particularly well with a Friulano or perhaps even a Sauvignon Blanc.

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A Focaccia A Day Can Keep The Doctor Away

December 15, 2009

Well perhaps the headline is an exaggeration but Focaccia is truly one of God’s inventions. Focaccia is an oven-baked bread and is somewhat similar to Pizza but is not exactly the same thing. The dough is a bit like pizza dough in texture and uses high-gluten flour, oil, water, salt and yeast.

Easy to make, this bread and pizza substitute can be made using many different toppings, including, of all things, grapes. This recipe for Schiacciata all’Uva is from the central Italian region of Tuscany. This variation on Focaccia is generally made following the end of harvest, in October and November. We like it anytime.

Red Grape Focaccia or Tuscan Schiacciata

Ingredients for forty 2 inch square pieces:

2 envelopes active dry yeast
Pinch of salt
2 cups of warm water
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
5 cups of all purpose flour
2 teaspoons sea salt
12 oz of red seedless grapes

Preparation:

Combine the yeast, sugar and water in a small bowl and let sit until bubbly, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil.

Put the flour and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook. Pour in the yeast mixture and mix on low speed until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 3 to 5 minutes.

Transfer the sticky dough to a generously floured 6 inch square section of a counter or board. Dust the dough liberally with flour, parting the dough to form a rectangle. Let the dough sit for 5 minutes.

Dust your hands with flour and stretch the dough in each direction to twice its size. Fold the dough over itself in three, letter style and form a rectangle. Brush the dough with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, dust with flour and loosely cover with plastic wrap. Let it sit for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, line a standard 11 x 17 inch rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper. Drizzle the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil over the parchment and spread it to cover.

Transfer the dough to the cookie sheet with a plastic scraper or spatula, trying to retain the rectangular shape as much as possible. Flip the dough over and use your fingertips to stretch the dough until it fits inside the pan. Distribute the grapes across the dough, pushing them in slightly. Put the dough in a warm place to rise for 1 hour. Alternatively, the dough can be covered loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Remove the pan from the refrigerator 3 hours before baking.

Preheat oven to 500 F.

Lightly brush the dough with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place the pan in the oven, lower the temperature to 450F and bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking the focaccia until it begins to turn a light golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer to a wire rack. Carefully peel off the parchment if necessary. Cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing and serving.

Recipe from Wine Bar Food by Cathy and Tony Manutuano

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Italian Holidays – Panettone or Pandoro?

December 10, 2009

As almost everyone knows, many Italians have a Panettone as one of their holiday treats. Panettone has become almost common place even in America. Gristedes, Stop and Shop and others are now having Panettone made for them under a private label.

While no one is 100% certain, it appears that Panettone hails from Milan. It appeared in Northern Italy around the 15th century. Panettone has a dome-shaped and its interior is usually filled with candied fruit, raisins, or with chocolate or flavored cream, chocolate chips or pastry cream and even liqueurs. The exterior either can be plain or covered with confectioners’ sugar.

Pandoro on the other hand actually comes from Verona and is usually plain inside with confectioners’ sugar on the outside. People tend to like one or the other and it is rare to find both at the same table, although not unheard of certainly.

Both can be eaten together with Mascarpone cream for a few added calories. These delicious desserts are also fabulous for breakfast after they are toasted. You can actually also make great french toast with them.

A number of firms sell Panettone in the United States, including Bauli, Motta and Perugina. There are unfortunately many imitation Panettone around as well. When buying one, check the label and see if it says it is made in Italy. Many South American companies have begun creating Panettone. The product itself may be delicious but it is not made according to Italian standards.

These wonderful treats can be enjoyed by themselves or with a sparkling wine. We paired the Panettone with a great sparkling wine made from Ribolla Gialla from Azienda Agricola Colutta last night at Alta Cucina’s Italian festive wines party.

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Italian Olive Oil Offers Many Choices For Consumers

December 4, 2009

Italian olive oil is quite well known in the United States and has been for a long time. What is new however are the number of olive oils available and the differences among them. Numerous Italian regions produce olive oil and most of them are trying to get into the US marketplace. Among the most important are Tuscany, Umbria, Apulia, Sicilia, Calabria and Liguria. There are also areas in some of the other 20 regions that produce olive oil such as Lago di Garda in Lombardy/Veneto.

The olive was originally planted in the South Caucasus and spread from there to Rhodes, Cyprus and Crete and then to the entire Mediterranean basin. Olive cultivation in Apulia, for example, dates back to 800 a.c. when Greek settlers migrated to the region during the era called Magna Grecia. Some 40% of Italian olive oil actually comes from Apulia.

One of the characteristics of olive oil from Apulia is that it is quite full bodied, more so, for example, than oils from Liguria, Lake Garda or Tuscany. It has rich aromas and flavors and considerable nutritional characteristics including a high level of vitamin E and other substances which protect against degenerative diseases and aging.

Just like with wine grapes, there are many different types of olives, each producing oil with various characteristics. In Apulia, some of the varieties include:

Coratina which produces an olive oil that is fruity and slightly spicy.

Ogliarola which produces an oil that is almost sweet and has an aroma of almonds.

Ogliarola Garganica and Parenzana which make fruity and quite well balanced oil.

Cellina and Saracena which produce oil that can be almost salty.

Olive oil can also be used for numerous purposes in the kitchen and out. In the kitchen, some of the lighter oils such as those made from coratina work very well with salads. Other that are slightly heavier and are a bit spicy enhance grilled meats and vegetables. Still others work for frying foods.

The final product depends largely on the quality of the olive and how it is cared for during harvest and pressing. Following the harvest which should be done by hand as much as possible, olives are washed before being sorted and eventually pressed. Olives must be pressed within 24 hours after they are gathered.

Apulia has a number of products which have the special Denominazione d’orgine protetta (DOP) label including Olio Extravergine di oliva Collina di Brindisi DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Dauna DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Terra d’Otranto DOP, Olio Extravergine di oliva Terra di Bari DOP, and Olio Extravergine di oliva Terre Tarantine DOP.

While Apulia is only one of many regions in Italy that produces olive oil, it gives you an idea of how many oils there are and how each one has different characteristics depending on the terroir where they are grown, the cultivar and the climate conditions in that area. Check out the oils at Alta Cucina’s store.

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Italian Sparkling Wines At Alta Cucina on December 9

December 3, 2009

Many people think that Italy has but a few sparkling wines. They couldn’t be more wrong. Italy actually has always had many sparkling wines and the recent trend has been to create a sparkling wine from just about any grape that has suitable acidity.

Acidity is a key factor in making a sparkling wine and often the grapes are actually picked slightly early in order to maintain the acidity. As a grape matures, its sugar levels tend to rise and its acidity falls. This is why many white grapes grown in cool climes are made into sparkling wines and many fewer red varieties from warm climates are made into sparklers. That said, there are no absolutes.

Italian sparkling wines can be white or red. Next week, on December 9, Alta Cucina will be holding an event and showcasing some different white sparkling wines. A few months ago, we had an event presenting red sparklers. The list is actually endless and each region is now getting into the act and creating a sparkling wine.

Sparkling wines can be made in a number of different ways but the most common are the traditional method where the wine undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle, the charmat method where the wine undergoes its secondary fermentation in tanks and the Asti method.

While certain areas of Italy do use the traditional method of making sparkling wines such as Franciacorta and Trento, most sparkling wines in Italy are made using the charmat method. This includes all prosecco which has become such a rage in the United States.

Producers have been creating sparkling wines out of their favorite grapes because they feel that it completes their product range. Many like to have a sparkling wine, a white, a red and a dessert wine in their portfolio.

Sparkling wines are perfect for the holiday season of course but they are also great wines to pair with food. The acidity usually plays well with any of the richer foods and can also be paired with light fare. Sparklers are a lovely addition to any meal and are usually a crowd pleaser as well. Salute!

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Italian Holiday Desserts- Struffoli From Naples, A Special Christmas Treat

December 1, 2009

As the Christmas season rolls around, one begins to think of what foods signify Christmas and the holidays. Italian regions each have their own particularities and today, we will speak about one dessert which comes from Naples, Struffoli.

Struffoli are fried balls of dough covered in honey and candied fruit. There are a great addition to any holiday meal and are not that difficult to make. The main issue is to get good honey. Together with sfogliatelle, the baba and the pastiera, struffoli are among the most well known and amusing desserts from the Campania region of Italy.

Legend has it that the dessert hails originally from Greece, when Naples was part of the Magna Grecia. Magna Grecia means Greater Greece and refers to the 7th and 8th centuries BC when Greeks populated Southern Italy in search of more land. Many inhabitants of these regions retain cultural traditions and foods that began during that time.

The name struffoli, in fact, comes from the Greek “strongulos” which means “round in shape”. This dish was originally made by nuns from the different religious orders and apparently given out in recognition of good works. Struffoli are considered good omens or harbingers of good things.

Here’s a great recipe for making struffoli from Accademia Barilla.

Pairing a dessert wine from Italy could also be a lovely idea for Christmas. Campania grows a fair amount of Malvasia Bianca but not a lot of it is sold in the United States. You can find Malvasia Bianca from Apulia more easily or try struffoli with a dessert wine from another region, such as Sicily which offers a host of dessert wines made from Malvasia and from the grape Zibibbo, also known as Moscato d’ Alessandria.

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