November « 2009 « Radicchioblog

Thanksgiving In Italy

November 26, 2009

Many people find themselves traveling in Italy over the Thanksgiving holiday. One can have trouble getting a perfect Thanksgiving meal because many ingredients do not exist in Italy such as sweet potatos and cranberries. These are just not part of the Italian table. Dishes can be substituted though and pumpkin is ubiquitous so one shouldn’t fear missing a good pumpkin pie or pumpkin tart for dessert.

While turkey can be found on some menus in Italy, there is no real culinary tradition that has turkey as its centerpiece except in a small town in the Abruzzo region called Canzano. Abruzzo is in central Italy and has both mountains and the sea among its treasures. It is known for its strong cuisine and hardy and stoic people.

Tacchino alla Canzanese is the most famous dish from this corner of Abruzzo near the city of Teramo. Canzano, a medieval hilltown at 500 meters above sea level with a stunning view of the Gran Sasso, Maiella and Laga mountains, has been making this turkey dish since the 1800s.

The turkey is cooked with peppercorns, salt, rosemary, garlic, bay leaves and veal bones for five hours in the oven. When the turkey, better if a female bird, is done, the gelatin from the drippings gets spread over the turkey and refrigerated. The dish is, in fact, served cold and is sliced turkey with a gelatinous covering. Apparently each family has their own recipe which is jealously guarded.

While Italians do not really celebrate Thanksgiving, there are many harvest holidays in the autumn months which celebrate different foods and the arrival or the end of the seasons. Tacchino alla Canzanese is generally eaten as part of the traditional Christmas meal in this part of Abruzzo.

Wines from Abruzzo tend to be made from one of two grapes: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo or Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The first produces light white wines which can be paired with pasta dishes or served as an apertif. Sometimes it is made into a blend with chardonnay.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a red grape variety which makes medium bodied, fruity wines with nice acidity. This grape has come into favor in the past 10 years and is widely available in the United States. Two very well known producers are Emidio Pepe who has been making organic wines for more than 40 years and Giuseppe Masciarelli whose wines are constantly considered some of the best from the region.

Only one D.O.C.G. wine comes from this area and that is the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane wines from the Colline Teramane. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo could be a good wine with any type of turkey this Thanksgiving.

1 Comment | abruzzo, Cooking, Dining, Italian Regions | Tagged: abruzzo, Canzano, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Tacchino alla Canzanese, Thanksgiving in Italy, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Zucca | Permalink
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Asti Spumante New York Week Nov. 28 to Dec. 5

November 19, 2009

Alta Cucina is working with the Consorzio Asti D.O.C.G. on its promotional “Asti Spumante New York Week.” At a press conference at the Alta Cucina Epicurean Center on Wednesday, Asti was paired first with a variety of cheeses and then was used to make a Risotto with butter, cheese and Asti. It was delicious and light while satisfying as only a risotto can be.

Cooking with wines has long been a tradition in Italy and many other countries. Making Risotto with Asti was a new twist on this fashion. The semi sweet notes in the wine worked perfectly with the cheese and butter of the risotto. This is a subtle pairing without any strong or overwhelming flavors but one that was immensely pleasurable. As one guest said, drinking Asti felt like seeing a dear old friend.

Chefs at 26 restaurants, wine bars and wine stores will be offering their recipes for using Asti when cooking. It will be interesting to see what they opt for. This risotto was absolutely perfect and will be imitated by all those in attendance.

1 Comment | Cooking, Piedmont, Uncategorized, Wining | Tagged: Asti D.O.C.G., Food pairing, Risotto | Permalink
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Risotto, A Timeless Italian Dish From Northern Italy

November 17, 2009

Fall is time for Risotto in many parts of Northern Italy. Rice cultivation in Italy can be traced back to the 14th century in documents between two noble families, the Sforza of Milan and the Estensi of Ferrara, in which they describe an exchange of rice. Today, rice is grown on more than 200,000 hectares Italy in regions such as Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia, the Veneto, Tuscany, Sardinia, Apulia and Calabria.

Cultivating rice is a very arduous process and for decades entailed having people spend hours with their feet in water. A famous Italian movie about the rice harvest called Riso Amaro showcases the difficulties quite clearly. In earlier times, women were chosen to come and pick the rice.

Today, the rice harvest is mechanized. One tradition which has not changed is the use of Carp in the rice paddies to help get rid of unwanted insects and weeds. The Carp eat both and thereby help to purify the water.

In addition to being extremely difficult to harvest, rice is often misunderstood. It is not just an easy meal but is also a very smart choice from a nutritional standpoint. Rice contains amino acids which are needed to help our cells grow while it contains no sodium or fat and can work with most diets. Rice is also highly digestible and easily matched with vegetables, meats or other elements, even with strawberries, Champagne, and Asti D.O.C.G.

Rice can be used in a variety of dishes which range from appetizers to the main course and dessert.

One Italian rice that has received the Indicazione Geografica Protetta designation (IGP) is the Nano Vialone Veronese from Verona. It received this honor in 1996. Just like in the wine world, there are different species of rice. Nano Vialone comes from the Japonica species. The roots of this species grow in the fertile fields around the city of Verona.

Here’s a nice Pumpkin risotto from the Consorzio of Nano Vialone Veronese.

Ingredients for four

- 10.5 oz “Veronese Nano Vialone Rice”
- 14 oz. broth – One medium sized pumpkin
- 3.5 oz. Butter
- ½ spoonful Mascarpone cheese
- ½ onion – 1 shallot
- ½ glass dry white wine
- 3.5 oz. Grated Parmesan cheese
- Herbs (Marjoram & Thyme)
- A sprig of rosemary

Preparation
After having washed the pumpkin, carefully remove all the peel, the seeds and the fibers. Cut into 3/4 inch square pieces. Finely cut the onion and the shallot. Melt the butter on a low heat with a drop of oil, fry the onion and the shallot. When they are soft but not golden, add the pumpkin: fry for a few moments and add the white wine and some of the broth., Add the herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the pumpkin is soft but has not become a pulp, add the chopped rosemary and remove from heat. Bring the broth to the boil and add the rice. As soon as it starts boiling again lower the heat until it is bubbling lightly. After 14 minutes add the rice to the pumpkin sauce, the Mascarpone cheese, some pepper and some more chopped rosemary. At 18 minutes remove rice from heat and cream with grated Parmesan cheese, and a touch of olive oil (depending on taste).

1 Comment | Cooking | Tagged: Nano Vialone Veronese, Pumpkijn Risotto, Risotto | Permalink
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Bacaro, An Appealing Spot On Lower East Side, NYC
November 12, 2009

Bacaro is a word in the Venetian dialect for a meeting place. It is also the name of a funky winebar and restaurant on the Lower Est Side in Manhattan. The wines are offered by the Ombra or shadow in Italian which translates into a 3 oz pour, al bicchiere (6 oz pour) and by the caraffa or half bottle. A long and eclectic list of wines from Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Lombardia, Trentino, Alto Adige and Piemonte are offered both by the glass and by the bottle. My favorites are the Nosiola from Trentino producer Cesconi, Colpo di Stato from Conte Loredan Gasparini, Cantina di Venegazzu and a host of wines by the producer Maculan from the Veneto.

The panna cotta, was perhaps the best ever eaten in New York. It was deliciously light and creamy. We had a small glass of nocino to finish off the evening. The bar and restaurant is a large space with tables upstairs and a cave-like lower floor with interesting and private nooks and crannies. Bacaro is a destination for the art crowd thanks in part to the museum in the Bowery and the 10 or more galleries that have popped up nearby.

The Venetian theme is carried on throughout their decor and in their products, from the water to the caffe. Bacaro is definitely worth the wait.

Leave a Comment » | Veneto, Wining | Tagged: Bacaro, Venice, Wine bar | Permalink
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Grana Padano DOP, A Favorite With Pasta Sauces
November 10, 2009

Grana Padano is one of Italy’s most loved cheeses. Grana Padano is usually used in salads, with carpaccio and most often with pasta sauces. Grana Padano is also delicious as a snack or antipasto.

This antique cheese began its history in the Middle Ages when monasteries were flowering throughout the Po Valley. It is said to have been created at the Chiaravalle Abbey outside of Milan in 1135. Much of the land there was used as a dairy pasture for cows. The excess milk that these cows produced was used for the production of hard cheese which could age and maintain many of its nutritional characteristics.

Grana Padano’s name refers to the fact that the cheese is quite different than other cheeses in terms of its texture and composition. Grana is “granular” and is not “uniform” like other cheeses. Padano refers to the area where it was first created, the Pianura Padana.

Grana is made from partially skimmed milk. The milk is cooked very slowly. The cheese comes in three versions. The first is aged 9-16 months before being sold, the second ages 16 to 20 months and is called Oltre 16 mesi while the third is Grana Padano Riserva which ages for over 20 months.

Grana is a semi-fat hard cheese with a white or yellow thin rind. Grana has a very delicate taste. It is less salty and nutty than Parimigiano Reggiano in terms of its flavor profile.

Initially, Grana was made in the area between the Po, the Ticino and the Adda rivers. Today the area where Grana can be produced also includes areas in the provinces of Venice, Treviso, Vicenza, Verona Padua and Rovigo.

Grana Padano is a Denominazione d’Origine Protetta (DOP) product or one that has received a special designation because of its particular characteristics.

Grana Padano shouldn’t exceed 40 kilograms and must be around 40 centimeters in circumference. Grana is widely available in the United States. Di Palo’s in New York City is a great location to find this versatile cheese.

Leave a Comment » | Cheeses, Italian Regions, Lombardy | Tagged: Chiaravalle Abbey, Di Palo's, Grana Padano, Lombardy, Po Valley, Veneto | Permalink
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La Strada del Vino San Colombano e Dei Sapori Lodigiani in Lombardy Makes A Great Sidetrip
November 5, 2009

Living in Italy or visiting Italy for extending periods of time enables one to attend many local festivals. Invariably, these festivals offer local dishes which are generally seasonal. Many assume this is only the case in regions such as Tuscany, Piedmont or Le Marche. Instead, it is just part of the Italian way of life and takes place all over the country, every weekend.

One great fall festival happens about 40 kilometers outside of Milan in a town called Lodi is the Rassegna Gastronomica Lodigiana.

Numerous local restaurants offer menus complete with Grana Lodigiano or a local cheese also known as ‘raspadura’ which can be eaten as an aperitif with a fresh white Verdea di San Colombano wine and the ‘fritada rugnusa’ or risotto with cream or sausages. The area is also known for the Torta di Lodi which is a dessert said to come from the Middle ages. It is made with almonds and is delicious.

The month long festival includes bike rides and the ability to visit cultural institutions and churches that are seldom open to the public.

The Strada del Vino is a 120 kilometer road passes through small cities and vineyards with numerous hotels and restaurants to take a rest or have a break, The area is very well known for its ceramics as well, goldsmiths and iron works.

San Colombano has a number of red and white wines. San Colombano DOC is made largely rom red grapes only: Croatina, Barbera and Uva Rara. Verdea is an IGT wine, an indigenous variety which does very well in this area and is classified as an IGT.

If a visit to Milan permits it, taking a side trip to one of the restaurants in Lodi could be a lovely Sunday excursion.

Leave a Comment » | Events, Italian Regions, Lombardy | Tagged: Italy, Lodi, Rassegna Gastronomica Lodigiana, San Colombano, Sapori Lodigiano | Permalink
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Venchi Chocolates: A Taste of Piedmont
November 3, 2009

Venchi is an Italian chocolate maker that has been around for over 100 years. The stiff somewhat formal bars can be found all over Northern Italy and have now made it to the United States.

The company was founded in 1878 by Salvatore Venchi in Turin. Venchi makes more than 350 types of chocolate but arguably became famous for their dark chocolate which is a 75% blend of Criollo and Forastero cocoa beans.

In the chocolate market, Italy competes with Belgium and France, better known chocolate making countries. There are four principal chocolate producing regions in Italy: Sicily, Tuscany, Piedmont and the Veneto.

All four of these regions have long traditions making chocolates which span hundreds of years. Each region produces a different type of chocolate and uses particular ingredients. The Medici family from the Tuscan city of Florence, for example, was among the first to drink hot chocolate in cups. Their chocolate apparently was enhanced by floral notes such as Jasmine flowers while some modern Tuscan producers also use refined local olive oil to flavor their products.

Piedmont on the other hand has always been quite well known for their chocolates which are made with hazelnuts known as nocciole in Italian while the Veneto makes chocolates with local products such as grappa or honey.

Sicily, known for chocolates with pepperoncino, citrus fruits and pistachios has a very long history with chocolate which began under Spanish rule. The Spaniards had discovered chocolate through their possessions in the Americas. The most famous area where chocolate is made in Sicily is a county called Modica. Chocolate from Modica is very unique. It is textured and crunchy and quite unlike almost every other chocolate around the world today. In fact, chocolate from Modica is more similar to that of the Aztec Indians than it is to the traditions of Piedmont or Tuscany where creamier chocolates are made.

These types of regional particularities are what make Italian chocolate so special and so interesting. Be it a cremino from Piedmont or a crunchy bar from Modica or a modern chocolate from Tuscany, Italy seemingly has a chocolate for every taste.

Currently there are no denominazione d’origine protetta (DOP) products in Italy in terms of chocolate. This designation is usually assigned to foodstuffs from a particular area or region such as Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, Radicchio from Treviso and Bresaola from Valtellina. One hopes a chocolate DOP will be assigned soon.

Chocolate production has become much more refined as food safety, traceability and authenticity have become buzzwords in the food business. One example of this is that there are now ““cru” cacao plantations much like the revered 1855 Classification of the First Growths of Bordeaux. These plantations command higher prices and the quality of the cacao are considered to be superior.

Chocolate, just like wine, is judge by its aromas, flavors and color. Venchi’s dark chocolate blend has a dark red mahogany color and floral and toasted notes. Chocolates can be described as light, medium or full bodied.

Venchi’s website gives an elaborate description of the process of making chocolate. There are four principal phases: fermentation, drying, toasting and aeration. These four phases can take different amounts of time depending on what type of product one is looking for in terms of their chocolate.

Venchi has also recently opened a sales point in the Milan Malpensa airport where one can buy a variety of their products. A nice gift, these chocolates are a little touch of Piedmont in your mouth.

1 Comment | Italian Regions, Piedmont | Tagged: Italain Chocolate, Piedmont, Venchi Chocolate | Permalink
Posted by radicchioblog