Instead of Making Apple Pie, Try Italy’s Cotognata

September 29, 2009

Apples are a universally liked fruit but often one doesn’t know what to do with them aside from making Apple Crisp or Apple pie. Here is a lovely recipe from Artusi for making apple marmalade. Mela cotogna translated means quince but you can try this recipe with some of the late ripening Apples.

Pellegrino Artusi was the author of the famous Italian cookbook La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiare Bene (The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well). He was born in Forlimpopoli, near the town of Forlì in Emilia Romagna. In his later life, he began to write a cookbook which he self published in the late 1800s. The recipes are still used today in many Italian kitchens and he is also celebrated for having been one of the first to unify recipes from all the different Italian regions in one book.

Cotognata:

2 pounds apples or quinces
2 1/2 cups sugar

Preparation:

Artusi suggests melting the sugar with a half cup of water. Once this has boiled, he then says to cut the apples into thin slices and stir them in a pot for 45 minutes. Once they are cooked, add the sugar mixture and cut the whole thing back into the pan. Cook at a very low heat until you get it to a certain density so that it doesn’t really move on the plate. You need to constantly mix the apples adding the sugar mixture as you work.

Once you take the mixture off the fire, let it sit for a bit and cool. You can actually cut this with a knife if it is the right density.

This dessert comes from the city of Lecce in the region of Apulia located in the toe of the Italian boot. A beautiful area, Apulian cuisine is famous for its desserts, cheeses, olive oils and wines.

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Italian Desserts – An Endless Variety of Sweets

September 24, 2009

Italian desserts are plentiful and varied. Each small town has at least one well known dessert for which they are famous.

In some of the Northern regions such as Lombardy, dry, crumbly cakes such as Sbrisolona from Mantova are all the rage. In the South, heavier, creamy desserts like the Cassata from Sicily or the Pastiera from Naples are signature dishes.

Throughout the country there is also a strong tradition of chocolates, often mixed in with nuts such as Torrone.

Another example of this type of “Italian chocolate bar” are the croccantini. They are tasty bars of ground hazelnuts coated with extra fine plain chocolate.

Italy also has a number of rare dessert wines to pair with these sweets. Years ago the lion’s share of sweet wines were based on white grapes such as Gewurztraminer, Moscato, and Malvasia. Today many types of wines are made into dessert wines. Even grapes that traditionally make robust red wines such as Primitivo di Manduria are being made into sweet wines.

Vigne e Vini, a winery from Apulia makes a lovely dessert wine from Primitivo called Chicca while Oltrepo’ Pavese near the Lombard city of Pavia also makes its own dessert wine called Sangue di Giuda.

This wine is made from a blend of three grapes, Croatina (65%), Barbera (25%, and Uva Rara (10%). These grapes are all indigenous or native to the area.

Light and somewhat fruity, this particular wine is a great surprise to many people. It has a beautiful color and a big frothy mousse. It has strawberry and raspberry aromas on the nose and the palate.

If you need a bottle of something esoteric to bring to someone’s house, try Sangue di Giuda, guaranteed it will be an interesting evening.

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Gragnano & Pizza: An Ideal Pairing

September 22, 2009

Cantine Federciane’s Gragnano DOC is full of surprises. At a recent wine tasting, many people thought that they were drinking a Lambrusco from Emilia Romagna. Much to their surprise, the wine had more body and different earthy aromas than the Lambrusco they remembered. They were not wrong however. The wine wasn’t a Lambrusco at all but a Gragnano, made from a blend of indigenous grapes from the Campania region of Italy. Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and Aglianico are blended to produce this delicious red wine from the Sorrento Penisola. The soils are volcanic and the winery’s website says that they see the perlage or bubbles in this wine as reflecting the eruptions of Vesuvius. The wine is made in stainless steel and ferments at a controlled temperature on selected yeasts. It undergoes a secondary fermentation in autoclave in order to create its characteristic foam.

Gragnano

The wine is a beautiful rich deep ruby almost purple red. It is best when served cool and is refreshing with berry notes, a lovely body and rich texture. This wine can always be found on the menu at local restaurant and wine bar Tarallucci e Vino and is on the menu at numerous restaurants in New York City. This wine is considered to be the ideal wine for pizza.

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Fall Brings Thoughts of Pappardelle al Cinghiale or Wild Boar Sauce

September 17, 2009

Today’s cold weather brings to mind not just a raincoat or a sweater but comfort foods and warm rooms. The nip in the air leads one to think about soups, pastas and roasted meats.

Fall is also a time of harvest festivals and local sagre in Italy. One classic dish which is a favorite, especially in Tuscany, is pappardelle al cinghiale or wild boar sauce.

Wild boar are actually quite prevalent in Italy and according to food expert Kyle Phillips,, the numbers are increasing because of the introduction of a new species from Eastern Europe. On this page, Kyle gives a host of recipes which use Cinghiale.

Cinghiale can be made into salami, used as a carpaccio meat or eaten as a roast but the most traditional way that it is served is in a meat sauce or ragu. A classic pairing is with pappardelle pasta. Pappardelle are similar to fettucine but are somewhat wider.

Luckily for New Yorkers, this lovely dish has made it onto the menus of many New York restaurants including Macelleria , Col Legno in the East Village and Cipolla Rossa, among others.

You can also buy homemade sauce at gourmet food shops, although truly delicious cinghiale is hard to find. It must be cooked just right otherwise the meat can become tough.

If a trip to Tuscany is not imminent, at least one has options. Fall wouldn’t be the Fall without at least one dish of pappardelle al cinghiale.

This dish can be paired with a great sangiovese based wine. Sangiovese has considerable acidity and will balance out some of the strong flavors of the cinghiale without covering them completely. A Chianti Classico from any of the seven sub-denominations would work perfectly.

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Bianca, A Home Away From Home

September 15, 2009

Dining out in New York can be delightful or difficult and everything in the middle. What it should be, at all times though, is relaxing. Bianca, a restaurant in lower Manhattan is just such a place.

Eating there a handful of times already gives you the feeling that you are a home. The manager will suggest you go next door and have a drink at Von while you wait for your table. The wait may even be long but no one seems to mind. It is a testament to the service, the food and the ambiance of Bianca.

Make no mistake, this is a local trattoria-style joint with an inexpensive and cash only menu all the time. It gets a fairly young and hip crowd from Nolita and the East Village but everyone’s always welcome and it feels that way.

The pasta are generally delicious and lasagna is always on the menu. The Chef leans towards dishes from Emilia Romagna. On a recent visit, the Tagliatelle with Sausage and Broccoli Raab were delicious. On another trip, the Ravoli di Ricotta with butter and sage did the trick. The portions are also quite generous.

Other recent dishes that we sampled include the Stracetti di Manzo, Carciofi fritti, Radicchio alla Griglia in Coperta (with prosciuto and cheese) which sounds odd but is delicious and the ever present Caprese salad.

A neat little wine list completes the picture. If you go, be patient and bring cash. Bianca is a sister restaurant to Celeste on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, also inexpensive with delicious pizza and a loud crowd as well as Teodora, a more upscale dining experience in Midtown.

The group, created and run by Chef Giancarlo Quadalti, is also associated with Fiore in Williamsburg, Brooklyn where Chef Roberto Aita runs the show.

Eating at any of these restaurants is a real pleasure and sends you home feeling not only satisfied with the food and wine but relaxed, as if you had just dined at a friend’s home.

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Italian Sparkling Wines: Not Just Prosecco

September 10, 2009

When people think of Italian sparkling wines they immediately think of Prosecco, a fruity, frizzy wine from the Veneto made with the prosecco grape. This wine has made a real splash in the United States but is absolutely not the only game in town.

Franciacorta, a region near the Lombard city of Brescia, is a very well known wine in Italy and has made some headway in the United States as well. Franciacorta is made using the traditional champagne method which calls for secondary fermentation in the bottle.

Prosecco on the other hand is made using the charmant method where secondary fermentation takes place in a tank. Franciacorta wines are available in the United States and a number of producers are now imported by a company called Franciacorta.

Sparkling wines are also made in the province of Trento in the Trentino region. One winery stands out, Ferrari, which makes fabulous wines using the traditional champagne method.

Many other areas of Italy are also building their sparkling wine portfolios whether it be Abruzzo with sparklers made from pecorino, a local variety or Le Marche with sparkling wines made from the local grape passerina. Sergio Mottura, a well known producer from the Lazio region is making a wonderful sparkling wine from Grechetto.

Italy offers both white and red sparkling wines. Lambrusco, of course, is very well known in the United States and Gragnano, a wine from the Campania region is also creating a buzz here as the perfect wine to drink while eating pizza.

Sparkling wines can be dry or sweet. Moscato d’Asti is probably the most famous sweet sparkling wine from Italy. Also in the sweet camp, are Brachetto d’Acqui and Birbet, both from the Piedmont region in the North of Italy.

And the list goes on…Sparkling wines can be great as an aperitivo or to drink with the entire meal. Contrary to what many people grew up pairing, dry sparkling wines do not go with dessert. For a dessert, a moscato d’asti or a brachetto are a perfect match.

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Back To School Blues- Sindrome da Rientro? Pumpkin Ravioli Offers Consolation

September 8, 2009

It is the start of the Autumn season with vacations ending, children going back to school, and everyone going back to their daily lives. Many suffer from the sindrome da rientro. While nothing is like summer, the Autumn can also be a joyful time, particularly active both at home and in the vegetable garden. Flowers have changed with mums replacing geraniums and tomatoes are soon to be picked from the vines. Fall brings wonderful fruits and vegetables. Squash are numerous and recipes for pumpkin ravioli begin to grace the covers of magazines in just a few weeks time.

Pumpkin ravioli is a signature dish in Northern Italy, particularly in the city of Mantova. While it traditionally is eaten between November and Christmas, any day in the Autumn can be an excuse to make ravioli with pumpkin, especially if the sage in your garden is all dried out.

Mantova is a beautiful city located in the province of Lombardy in Northern Italy. Mantova was home to the famous Gonzaga family since the start of the 14th century. As in many important Italian families, the Gonzagas put their stamp on Mantova and its architecture.

They built the huge Palazzo Ducale which absolutely dominates the city. Just like Versailles, this palace also has its own Hall of Mirrors. The palace contains an incredible fresco cycle by the world renowned painter Mantegna in the Camera degli Sposi or bridal chamber. If you see nothing else in Mantova, this should not be missed.

Another incredible building in the city is Palazzo Te which was built by Giulio Romano in 1534 for Federico II Gonzaga. The church of Sant’Andrea built in the 11th century is the oldest church in the city and one of the most beautiful. Mantegna (1431-1506) is buried in this church in the first chapel on the left after the entrance. Mantova is not a large city so you will have plenty of time to take in these sites and enjoy a delicious dish of pumpkin ravioli.

If instead you have no plans for a trip, this website gives you a step by step recipe on how to make both the ravioli and the filling. Buon appetito!

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Cooking On A Sailboat, Italian Style

September 3, 2009

Italy is very well known as a nation of food lovers, artists and poets but is also a land of avid navigators and sailors. Surrounded by water, many Italians learn to sail young and continue to do so throughout their lives. Food is important in every aspect of Italian life, including when on a sailboat. A group of sailing enthusiasts put a book out a number of years ago for sailors to show what to bring on a boat without a refrigerator for one week. It is called In Barca Senza Frigo put out by Mursia Editore. The results were astounding. As one might imagine there were a lot of recipes for making pastas, frittatas, bruschettas and even some desserts. When travelling on a sailboat, some of the necessary things to have with you are capers, anchovies, tomatoes, tomato paste, pasta, bread, crackers, chocolate and/or nutella, eggs, parmigiano cheese and herbs. Add to this nuts, chips, wines, beer, water and coca-cola.

When out sailing, sometimes you sleep off shore and therefore can not get more provisions in the marinas. With these ingredients and this handy little book with its easy recipes, you should have no problem eating for a week. Sailing is a very big sport as well as recreational activity in Italy. Some well known sailing schools in Milan include Sailor Company, Mondo Vela, Horca Myseria, and Vela Mare. In Rome, you can go to Fare Mare or La Scuola della Vela. The most famous of all sailing schools in Italy is located on the Island of Capraia in Sardinia. All of these schools offer week long courses, two week adventures in the Mediterranean and many other opportunities to enjoy the beautiful of Italy.

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Is Farro the New Orzo? Tuscan Mainstay Makes A Splash in the U.S.

September 1, 2009

Farro, a form of wheat that has its’ husk intact, is making a splash in the United States. A grain that is traditionally eaten in Tuscany, Abruzzo and Lazio, Farro may just be the new orzo, another grain from Italy that has become a mainstay on many menus.

Farro is arguably more rustic than orzo. It is darker in color and has a delicious nutty and firm flavor. Tuscans use farro for soups, as an alternative to pasta or as a side dish. Much whole wheat pasta is made from farro as are many desserts. Farro can also be used in salads instead of other grains such as quinoa.

Farro is also extremely easy to make and is generally cooked in the same way that you would make rice or orzo. It is supposed to be chewier than rice so it can be cooked for a shorter period of time. In it’s easiest form, it is delicious with some fresh tomato sauce, basil and pepperoncino (macerated red pepper).

Farro is an ancient grain which first came to light in the Middle East. From there, it spread to Italy where it has been grown for centuries. It is somewhat harder to grow than other forms of wheat and therefore has been less popular in other areas of the world.

In Italy, you can generally find farro both in the main supermarkets and in health food stores. Farro is considered to confer healthy benefits and has very low cholesterol. In the United States, you can find farro is some high end Italian grocery stores or online at a variety of websites.

It is unlikely that we will see farro on every menu any time soon which is too bad because the nutty flavors go very well with fall meats, wines and vegetables. A healthy soup of farro and legumes is perfect for a cool fall evening with a glass of sangiovese. While one doesn’t want summer to end, farro reminds me there are some lovely fall foods and farro is one of them.

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