July « 2009 « Radicchioblog

Not All Fried Calamaretti Are Created Equal – Brooklyn’s Fiore Takes The Cake

July 30, 2009

Some dishes are on every menu. Fried calamari falls into this category. We all know that many classic dishes such as this one can be made in a variety of styles. You can find fried calamari at the seashore whether at a chic restaurant in the Hamptons or at a lobster shack on Cape Cod every year. This dish along with fried clams is particularly appealing in the summer.

By far, however, the best fried calamari in New York is made in Brooklyn, yes Brooklyn. In Williamsburg, a lovely neighborhood restaurant named Fiore takes the prize.

Roberto Aita’s version of this dish using fried calamaretti with fried zucchini is pure joy. Light and crispy, it almost makes you forget that it is fried. The rest of the all cash menu is exquisite as well.

Roberto hails from Italy and opened his restaurant about two years ago. The restaurant, which Roberto likes to think of as a neighbor trattoria, is both cozy and stylish at the same time. The menu changes frequently and Roberto on occasion will make special dishes.

The restaurant is popular with all age groups and has numerous regulars who eat there every night. Children are welcome and at an early hour are some of the preferred customers. The price is right too. A great meal can be had for $25 and under, no small feat in the Big Apple.

Fiore can accommodate large parties and the relaxed and friendly staff makes going there a real pleasure, not always the case at New York restaurants. Even with an unpleasant staff, his calamaretti are worth the trip.

2 Comments | Dining | Tagged: Fiore, Fried Calamaretti, Roberto Aita | Permalink
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Italian Varieties Abound At California Wineries

July 28, 2009

At first glance, it may seem that California makes only international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay but a closer look shows that Italian varieties are omnipresent. There is even a California-Italy Association which lists the wineries that use Italian varieties for their wines.

There are wineries that grow Northern Italian varieties such as Freisa and Teroldego and others that grow Southern Italian varieties such as Aglianico and Primitivo. There is an interesting exchange of ideas between wine makers on both sides of the ocean not only in California but also in New York State where some wineries have been experimenting with the Friulano grape, still called Tocai Friulano in the United States although that name can no longer be used in Italy.

Reviews are mixed as to which grapes actually do grow well outside of their native habit. One Italian grape that has done rather well abroad is Barbera. Many of the French varieties, such as Viognier and Syrah do very well in California. Thus far, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo appear to be the least adaptable of Italian grapes. While Napa may be the United States’ answer to Tuscany, Cabernet is still King there and it doesn’t look like Sangiovese will take away that title.

Experimenting with different varieties is every wine maker’s dream and it is wonderful for wine producers in California that they can experiment with a wealth of Italian varieties although their best results still seem to come in their land of origin – Italy. Unlike Malbec in Argentina, Carmenere in Chile, or Tannat in Uruguay, no Italian variety has found a better home in another country then their homeland. Wine maker’s will certainly keep trying.

Leave a Comment » | Wining | Tagged: Italian varieties in California, Wining | Permalink
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Emporio, A Nolita Favorite For Light Fare

July 23, 2009

Emporio, a restaurant which opened in April of this year, is a great spot for an aperitivo, a light meal, or an after dinner drink with a friend. They are also open late for an after work spuntino (snack).

On a recent trip, the bar and all of the tables were packed in this rustic Italian local neighborhood joint modeled after a 1920s grocer. Owned by the same people who run Aurora in Soho and in Brooklyn, the formula is a success.

They have a somewhat limited menu but with enough choices that everyone can find something to eat, be it pizza, pasta, fish, salad, meat dishes or soup. Some of the dishes are an odd mix such as the cantaloupe soup but the pastas were delicious.

The wine list is extensive with numerous indigenous Italian varieties for those who want to experiment and get out of their comfort zone. A number of wines are served by the glass, the quartino or the bottle.

The staff is nice although the wait can be long. Once seated however, no one rushes you and you feel relaxed and at home. Many of the customers were Italian and French which is always a good sign.

If you aren’t yet ready to commit to a full meal, Emporio serves an Italian style aperitivo from 5 to 7 pm everyday.

Emporio
231 Mott Street
New York, New York

Leave a Comment » | Dining | Tagged: Aperitivo, Aurora, Emporio, Nolita, Spuntino | Permalink
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Bottled Water Trend Continues In Italy Despite Attempts To Modify Behavior

July 21, 2009

Italians continue to be the world’s largest consumers of bottled water despite world wide attempts to downsize the market for bottled water. Venetian authorities including the Mayor and Archdiocese came out earlier this year with a campaign urging citizens to give up their beloved bottled water but it seems to have fallen on deaf ears.

Unlike the United States where bottled water has become fashionable in the past 10 years or so, drinking bottled water in Italy is an ingrained part of the culture. Much like terroir for wine, each bottled water comes from a specific small site and has different characteristics for which it is hailed. Northern Italians and Southern Italians tend to drink brands that come from their regions although there are national brands such as Acqua Panna and Pellegrino in Italy.

In addition to the terroir and traditional aspects of why Italians drink bottled water, there are also practical reasons. Most Italian tap water has a very strong taste of calcium. Additionally, tap water filters have not really made inroads into the country. Brita water filters have not yet made a big splash.

In Italy, bottled water is also said to bring healthy virtues whether it be an ability to help you lose weight such as Vita Snella water or aiding in digestive problems, among other issues. Each water has a long description of which vitamins and minerals it contains and in what percentage.

Whether it be sparkling or still, bottled water consumption in Italy is hardly on the wane. The same cannot be said for the United States where there is a big movement underway to get people back to drinking tap water.

Some 60 million plastic bottles are thrown away each day, websites say, causing a huge recycling problem. Additionally, opponents claim that bottled water increases greenhouse gases and that the bottles themselves confer unwanted elements to the water thus negating whatever purities bottled water is said to possess.

While all this information can be highly confusing, one thing is clear at any number of New York City restaurants, Acqua Panna and Pellegrino are here to stay. A mere five years ago, the two waters, both owned by Nestle which also owns Deer Park, Poland Spring, Levissima, Vittel and many other brands, were nowhere to be found in the United States. Boy have things changed.

3 Comments | Dining | Tagged: Bottled Water | Permalink
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Stemware Is An Important Element In Wine Service

July 16, 2009

There are few things that people in the wine industry seem to agree upon but one of these is the importance of glassware and its integrity. What does integrity mean in this context? It means that a wine glass was washed with hot water, no soap and dried by hand. At industry tastings and in many wine bars and restaurants, hand washing is nearly impossible but a good wine bar will run its glasses without soap which leaves a filmy residue and can affect the taste of the wine.

That said another point that many seem to agree upon when it comes to wine, is that the glass can make a difference. Most wine bars in New York tend to use glasses from a limited number of suppliers. The premier supplier is the Austrian company Riedel.

Claus Riedel, the 9th generation of the family is credited with being the first to create wine glasses tailored to specific grape varieties. These Riedel series glasses have changed the market irreversibly and have made Riedel number one. Innovation seems to be part of the Riedel gene pool. Maximilian Riedel, the 11th generation of the Riedel has also revolutionized the wine industry when he presented his “O” series. This glass has no stem or base, two elements which are crucial to our concept of the wine glass.

Sometimes it seems as if Riedel is the sole provider of glassware and decanters but this is absolutely not the case. Italy’s Luigi Bormioli for example makes a line of wonderful glasses as do Schott Zwiesel, Anchor Hocking, La Rochere, and Ravenscroft. These are just a few names of the other companies which are well known for their glassware and decanters.

Leave a Comment » | Dining, Kitchenware | Tagged: Altacucina, Luigi Bormioli, Stemware | Permalink
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Pinot Nero In Italy: A Nice Surprise

July 14, 2009

Pinot Nero has long been grown in certain areas of Italy such as the Valle d’Aosta, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Adige and Oltrepo’ Pavese. The Franciacorta region in Lombardy also has its fair share of Pinot Nero which it uses for sparkling wine. Pinot Nero also grows in Tuscany of all places. One noteworthy wine is from a Tuscan winery called Podere la Fortuna.

Podere la Fortuna is one of 12 wineries that were part of the Castello di Cafaggiolo, a Medici property in the Mugello, an area of Tuscany. Wine was originally produced at La Fortuna in 1465 when it was owned by Lorenzo de Medici.

The vines were replanted in 2001. Different pinot nero clones from Burgundy were planted in six separated areas, each with its own particular micro-climate and soil, in order to make wines which are complementary when blended.

In terms of viticulture and wine-making techniques used at La Fortuna, the grapes are picked by hand and then have to pass a double selection before being lightly pressed. No cultured yeasts are added to the wines. Instead, only natural yeast from the grapes and what is in the cellar are used for fermentation. Generally, the wine ferments for anywhere between 12 to 25 days in large oak barrels before being pressed again lightly and put into barriques where it remains for 12 months. The next phase is a blending of the different lots. Once the blend is made, it spends six more months in cement before clarification and bottling. The wines then spend another 12 months in the bottle before being sold into the market.

Pinot Nero

The wines are made by Andrea Paoletti. Paoletti and his team are very well respected in Italy and work with many wineries. Paoletti also makes a wine of his own called Rancore, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Pinot Nero. Paoletti has been experimenting with ancient Tuscan varieties such as Pugnitello at a number of wineries in Tuscany. A fascinating chap, he is a true devotee of Pinot Nero.

One can’t write about Pinot Nero in Italy without mentioning Franz Haas, a producer from Trentino-Alto Adige who has produced wonderful Pinot Neros year in and year out since 1880. The wines are true gems that are worth trying for all Pinot Nero lovers. Haas is distributed by Winebow. Their website gives a long and detailed description of the wines and the winery.

H.Lun

A third Pinot Nero worth tasting is that of H.Lun from their Sandbichler line. It was elegant with mushroom notes. The wine was complex, well balanced and a real pleasure to taste.

Leave a Comment » | Wining | Tagged: Andrea Paoletti, Franciacorta, Franz Haas, H.LUN, Italian wines, Oltre po' Pavese, Pinot Nero, Podere la Fortuna, Trentino Alto Adige | Permalink
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CIES Forum Showed Economy, Food Safety and Sustainability Important Food Topics

July 9, 2009

The economy, food safety and sustainability were at the forefront of a three day seminar this June organized by CIES – The Food Business Forum. The meeting, held at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York, was entitled “Ingredients for Success in Turbulent Times.” Panel discussions revolved around the topics of simplicity, agility, global experiences, optimism, and speed.

CIES is a 55 year old independent global food business network which brings together top level executives on a yearly basis to discuss changes in the industry, best practices and how to effect change in the future.

In a survey released in June, some 252 food company executives cited the economy and consumer demand as the number one problem in the global food business. Food safety was cited as the second most pervasive problem facing the industry. The survey entitled CIES – The Food Business Forum, Top of Mind Survey, June 2009 is made public in January and is updated in June on an annual basis.

CIES is very well known in Europe and slightly less so in the United States. This year’s meeting in New York was a big success and a second conference on Food Safety is slated for the Fall in Washington, D.C.

9 Comments | Uncategorized | Tagged: CIES, Europe, Food Safety | Permalink
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Tired of Prosciutto? Try Bresaola Instead

July 7, 2009

Summer rolls around and menus abound with offerings of Prosciutto and Melon. While it’s certainly a treat to be able to have this fare in New York and other places, what is even more appealing is the appearance of Bresaola on many menus.

Bresaola traditionally comes from Northern Italy but is eaten throughout Italy. In Milan, it is a staple on summer menus and many people have it for lunch instead of salad. This cured meat can be served as a carpaccio, thinly sliced with arugula and shaved parmesan cheese or alone with some lemon and a touch of olive oil. It has less fat than salami and is also allowed on many diets in Italy. Rich in protein and mineral salts, it can be a nice addition to your menu. It is a delicate meat, slightly salted and savory and works very well with red, rose, or white wines.

Bresaola

Bresaola della Valtellina received protected status as an Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP) product or one with a specific geographical area. In the Valtellina, an area in Lombardy, it is served with juniper butter and pumpernikel bread (pane di segale).

Leave a Comment » | Dining, Italian Regions, Lombardy | Tagged: Bresaola della Valtellina, Cured Meats, Northern Italy | Permalink
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Italian Wines For July 4 Holiday

July 2, 2009

Italy offers a wide variety of wines that will work well with holiday fare for the July 4 celebrations. Many people will be out grilling and instead of serving a big Zinfandel, why not try a Primitivo di Manduria from Apulia. Many think that the grapes are related but recent research shows that the parent grape for Primitivo is actually a Croatian grape and that the two are not at all related. What they do have in common is that they can be big, juicy wines with a peppery note that can offset barbecued meats. If Primitivo is not your cup of tea, try an Aglianico from Campania or an Aglianico del Vulture from Basilicata, another region in the South of Italy. Also, a robust and full bodied wine, it is a bit softer on the palate with more fruit and fewer meaty flavors than Primitivo. If you aren’t serving meat but pasta dishes and lighter foods, any Sangiovese based wine will work very well. Red wines from Tuscany are mostly based on different clones of Sangiovese. Some are blended with international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Sangiovese is a fruity wine with high acidity. The acidity is what makes this such a food friendly wine. Acidity cuts through some of the heavier flavors and spices in food. Whatever you are serving, you can find an Italian wine to match. Check out these recipes for your holiday party.

1 Comment | Apulia, Basilicata, Campania, Cooking, Dining, Events | Tagged: Aglianico, Aglianico del Vulture, Altacucina, Barbecue, July 4 recipes, Primitivo di Manduria, Sangiovese | Permalink
Posted by radicchioblog